Recent content by enochian

Its not squeezing the wires. Its squeezing the Metal Jacket. And the anti-short bushing is in there.

Should I have removed the white fabric tape before putting on the squeeze connector? https://i.ibb.co/3dCBfz3/IMG-20240228-122251337.jpg

I don't know. I assume 240, because its just a regular residential house.

Aluminum 6 gauge SEU would be rated for 40 amps right? I can just change the breaker.

https://www.geappliances.com/appliance/GE-30-Built-In-Knob-Control-Electric-Cooktop-JP3030DWBB I don't know why it says BOTH: Recommended Circuit Breaker (Amps) at 208V.....................30 Recommended Circuit Breaker (Amps) at 240V......................40

Some people say that's wrong. Google it.

Because that is what is already in the house coming from the breakers.

Split bolts aren't going to fit in the boxes.

A. Direct wiring an oven B. Direct wiring a stovetop Both are 6 gauge Aluminum SEU

So I assume I need Polaris connectors for the hots and a lay-in lug for the neutral/ground?

Trimming the faceplate does work. I guess I will go with that. It's just one plate by the way.

I was thinking to dremel out a little bit of the cabinets, unless there is another solution?

2 different projects with stranded aluminum wire. 1. In-wall oven with some kind of obscure legacy SEU cable 2. Hardwired drop-in stovetop.

So the 2 wires go into the 2 holes right? No wire nut right?

A green screw doesn't work.