Recent content by Eslader

Well, I don't know what his numbers are, but it's plenty bright when we do engine swaps without needing supplemental light except for under the car. For me the can lights aren't for the "uncluttered ceiling" look, it's for the "actually be able to use the full 10' ceiling height in my garage"...

A friend has cans in his 6 car garage. They look great, and don't cause any height obstructions like any other lights would. They're plenty bright, and he's still running compact fluorescents in them because LEDs weren't around when he built it. I plan to do the same thing in my garage.

EMS around here told me they could get through my titanium ring. But it still comes off any time I'm going to be doing any sort of hand work. The wood/dinosaur bone inlay helps keep me from taking chances - don't want to wreck the thing. ;)

Do you live where Menards has a presence? Look at the Masterforce boxes. They've been excellent for years, and just got better by going to 24" depth. The price is pretty great compared to the competition.

You probably don't. For most of us, it's a toy. Yes, it can make jigs for your woodshop, but nothing better than you can make yourself in your wood shop out of wood. Unless you get a really expensive one, anything you make that requires precision (like, say, a square) will probably need tweaking...

Also check this link out: http://www.mediacollege.com/lighting/three-point/ It'll teach you how to properly set up lights for the best look. Once you know how, it's actually pretty easy.

IMO, if I need a wobble, it's great. If I don't, it's annoying. I like my universals better anyway.

Mine doesn't reflect off the blade. It's supposed to shoot straight to the piece, but because of where they mounted it, the edge of the blade blocks the laser when the saw is up. It gets more accurate when you bring the saw down near the board, but at that point it's pretty pointless.

We get hot and humid up here in the summer, so I'd be very grateful for a heated *and* air-conditioned garage. I'll have to settle for just heated, though. Totally fine working in 50 degree weather, so the only time I'd raise the thermostat is if I were holding some sort of gathering in there in...

Just to toss another option into the mix, I've been very happy with my Kobalt (Lowes) 10" sliding miter saw. About the only disappointment is that the laser needs to be fiddled with a lot to get it sort-of accurate, and it will never be right where the sawblade will be, but I just do it the old...

Not sure what you were looking at, but I have yet to see a Husky that's as good as a Masterforce. Same with the HF ones. They're good, but MF is better. I've got the old green 41" top and bottlm with the detents. Had it 5 or 6 years now. I use it almost daily, and it's still in perfect...

Definitive Technology makes a damn good speaker that isn't ridiculously expensive. Just avoid Bose. Way overpriced for what it is (which isn't all that great).

Why not make one shed the wood shop and the other shed the small engine shop? I'm cramming woodworking stuff into a 3 car garage that's outfitted for engine work, and it's a challenge. I don't know where I'd start if I was trying to do it in a shed. The suggestion about consolidating tool...

OP said he's putting on oil pans and valve covers with it. You'd be fine on both of those if you were 50% off one way or the other. The important thing on parts like that is that the torque be consistent across all the bolts, not hyper-accurate. I absolutely agree that if you're doing work on...

Not unusual for "specialty" batteries. Back when I was in TV, one camera battery could easily run 500 bucks.