Recent content by FEF

I just went through this. The truck won't wait the 2 hours it takes to unload with an engine hoist, floor jack, and dollie. I rented a 26' U-Haul, picked it up (have them put the end very close to the edge), then it took about 2 hours to safely maneuver the lift out without scratching the...

I found it interesting that I had nearly no restriction on garage size when it's attached to the house. - 1 door in front - 18x14 - 1 door (drive thru) in back - 10x14 - 37' wide - 40 deep - 16' eaves w/arch trusses. - 20' x 20' loft because my design used 2 of the existing walls of the...

The pressure was my concern, too, so I did some research over the past few days. I didn't find any lift with a bypass over 3,000 psi. There could be, but 3k gave me a rough idea where the lift protection would kick in The portable units (and pumps mounted on jacks) claim pressures up to...

Well, not really. What I did get was another bridge jack, so now I have a pair of 6K bridge jacks and an Atlas 412, 12K 4-post lift. I rented a 26' U-Haul truck, picked up the lift (they put it in with a forklift), then it took me about 3 hours to get the jacks and lift out with an engine...

I admit that I haven't tried it, but one of the ideas I had was to get 2 manual bridge jacks and one air/hydraulic pump. Since the hydraulic lines wouldn't be under pressure when at rest, dry quick-disconnects might work. As is my custom, it went crazy from there. If I do that, then why not...

Greetings all, and Happy Christmas!!! I've spent the last few hours skimming over the half a million posts in the HUGE scissor lift install thread. Just Wow. There's a lot of info there. Not counting that massive thread, I've been looking into lifts for quite a while and very nearly bought...

Any new news??? I'm attempting a similar thing, for use in the shop for spot cooling. I have to be carefull, though. Many AC's of that type don't like to be opperated at any angle. Other more expensive units are good for 30deg. That's a fair amount of tilting.

This depends on it's height. If it's under about 10' tall, you'll be OK. If it's over about 10' tall, there may not be an opener that is UL complient.

HUMmmmmmm Well... As it is, there's at least 1' between the light fixture and where dry wall will be some day. I could drop it another foot, if need be. But, that's about as good as it will get. I'm also planning on having my lights be 220v. I wonder if that will make it less hot? I'm...

My walls are 16'tall with a rafter height of about 20' I an area that's about 15x40, I'm thinking that I might want about 2 of the 4 bulb versions. That might be plenty of light. My first thought was a pair of these. http://www.prolighting.com/crewbh20400ma-8.html Now, I'm thinking 2 of...

So... Are you thinking something like a 6 bulb fixture like this one?? http://www.prolighting.com/6lat5flhibay.html

HAving just gone through a garage design, I know they will ask for the engineering stamp that proves the structure will hold it. It might fall under the heading of a "poll building", but they are "engineered". This is not "engineered" to hold trusses, sheathing, and roofing shingles. I don't...

Indeed. Very good info. Looks like grinding is in my future.

You know..... THis may be crazy, but I think I like the wood floor idea. A raw toung & groove type thing might do very well. I'm trying to think of a time when I actually burnt the floor. With welding, there is the possibility it might catch fire. Proof of theory: I've done a lot of work on...

Fair question. I can have a bare floor in the actual shop area, but I also grind and weld on my auto frames. This means that the area serves as a parking area AND a welding/grinding area. OH!! And this next round of mods will require drilling the sub-frame welded on the frame. It's a tricky...