So your better than a professional system @ 28mil thick would cost him $1,500.00 just for the materials. This is no extra tools. Why wouldn't he hire someone to do it for him and at the same time save him some money and back ache.
Guess you didn't have the attention span to read the whole question. He wants to stain it not epoxy it. Sure put down $1,000 worth of epoxy @ 28mil thick to say on labor cost of someone else doing it. Remember kids thicker is always better haha.... He Einstein if he has done it many, many, many...
haha..... These people have you dreaming you can do this and make it look like a professional did it. There is a reason i spent 30k on tools to be able to do these garages. If you hand grind you will get grinder marks all over the floor if you are wanting to just stain it. If you hand grind it...
Yes i agree with that if not using a full broadcast. But im still amiss at how polyurea is harder and has a better adhesion then epoxy. I have seen statements but have yet to see a actually tech sheet with the astm. I worked for the company in sales that manufactures the product and spent time...
1. The amount of flakes you will need is about 70lbs to do a full broadcast.
2. Yes you need a gauged squeegee. If not the you will have thick spot that the chips will settle into and leave epoxy showing through and look splotchy at the end. Check the spec sheet it should tell you how many mils...
Why would you say epoxy has a better adhesion strength but then also say that it needs a primer. I do not use a primer and i use 100% solid epoxy and i have not had any issues with over 300 garages.
I am seeing a growing number of companies and individuals talking about polyurea having a 4 to 10 times better flexural strength and also a hardness strength. I haven't seen any documents to support this. Why would someone use a polyurea as a base coat when epoxy has a better adhesion strength...