Recent content by Frogday

Epoxy is a good choice. I did the same and put down epoxy and it has been almost 10 years since I put it down. It has lasted very well in a working garage where I have pulled engines, transmissions, and many other garage-type things over the years. After 5-6 years it began to lift in one small...

I used Epoxy-Coat about 3 years ago and it has held up fairly well (1000sf)...though there are a few spots that tires have lifted and a few chips from dropping tools and such. I wish I could get smaller repair kit than the $50 kit. The spots I need to repair are only a few inches in diameter and...

I have 10' ceilings and added the higher rails for my garage door. There is enough room even with the opener above the roof of the top car. If you are worried about the top car leaking, the lifts I bought come with drip trays...I think 4 of them came with the lift.

I like that AMC Blue Poly. Mine is Chevy orange.

I'm almost certain I got the Cycloaliphatic epoxy. I hadn't even heard about the other kits people started ordering until after I had finished mine. PM sent.

I had to go to the site to check what it was I ordered...it was the Cycloaliphatic epoxy. So I guess that is probably the difference here. I didn't apply any UV coating, which is why I am getting the darker area outside the door. That strip turned dark within 1-2 weeks and the floor inside the...

Wow, wasn't expecting to stop by and see this here. My floor has been down for a few months now and the only yellowing I have is where the floor extends beyond the garage door. The 4" strip that is always outside has turned darker than the rest of the floor. I frequently have my doors open, so...

My garage floor extends about 4" beyond the door. I put the epoxy right out to the edge. While it was drying, I just locked the door about 1" off the floor and leaned some cardboard against the outside to keep things from falling into the wet epoxy. Being outside, UV affected this 4" stripe...

That is how I did mine. I put the clear over the base within 18 hours as the instructions recommended. It would be easiest to clear out the whole garage and do everything in one shot, but that was not possible for me.

I ordered everything from Epoxy-Coat. The areas I did a week apart don't really overlap much. I just taped a line where I wanted to stop and when I did the next area I put the epoxy down up to the line. There was a probably a slight overlap, but it is hardly noticeable. The bond between the...

For that small crack, I'd either ignore it, or just use a small brush and small amount of epoxy from your next batch and paint it in. I think it will be harder to blend in a second coat than it would to just touch-up the crack. I used a battery drill to mix all of mine and just made sure I had...

I'm not sure it is bothering me enough to spend over $200. :wtf: The affected area is 4" by about 30'...a double and a single garage door worth. I might just go with an Epoxy-Coat touch up kit and add some flakes. I'm kind of curious about how much darker it will get over time.

I wonder how much UV protection that product offers. I have noticed the clear is highly sensitive to UV. My floor extends about 4" beyond the garage door when it is closed, and that 4" started to yellow within a week or two. I'm considering putting down some gray base and more flakes over that...

If it is bare galvanized metal, it will turn dark where the acid hits it. Muriatic acid is used when soldering galvanized sheetmetal and it acts quickly. I would get some plastic drop cloth and use the blue tape to cover the bottom 12" of the wall. If the metal is coated or painted, it might...

The baseboard molding will really give it a nice finished look.