Recent content by GeorgeG2

The only thing left to break down is the motor and I can't get the pulley off of the motor shaft. I have removed the set screw and used a lot of penetrating oil. I have tried tapping the shaft out while suspending the pulley by hand but no luck. I don't want to get too aggressive with a metal...

What wax do you use on the machined parts? I used Collonite paste wax on the post and it's starting to rust again. I'll look at BLO. Do you bake the parts or any other step before BLO? Thanks, George

The E tank process is really interesting - low toxicity, relatively cheap, fun to watch. The biggest drawbacks are that each piece goes in the tank one after the other for 1 - 2 days each and then they come out wet and start rusting immediately and the first piece was started over a week ago. I...

That spindle collar does have a removable thru pin. Pound it out starting on the side not flush with the spindle and as for all of these pins, use a flat punch as close to the pin diameter as you have that will be a little loose in the bore. Once that collar comes off then you can remove the...

E tank update. When your working a big, complicated and/or really degraded part - take the part out after 12 - 24 hours and scrub it with a brush and green scrubby pad. Then reposition it and put it back in the tank. You will notice that the activity picks up and the part can finish up faster...

Lessons learned during badge/emblem removal I had no luck with pulling out the two pins or putting a slot in the top of the "rivet" and turning the rivets out with a screw driver. No amount of prying from under the badge worked either. The best approach (and this requires a very steady hand...

That's interesting. Concrete reinforcing mesh might be a good upgrade for that idea.

The E tank is a nice low toxicity option. No paint stripper, no nasty lead paint dust, etc. The main body of the drill is in the tank now. Everything just hosed off after 24 hours but the removal is somewhat line of site between the item and the rebar rods so a big piece has to be repositioned...

OK, thanks.

The electrolysis process works well but how do you guys deal with the light layer of rust that forms as soon as you take the part out and wipe it dry? Thanks, George

Electrolysis works good. 100% rust removal and 90% paint removal with no hard abrasion required. Don't know if its good enough for the paint shop as is but I'll find out. Rustiest (sp?) piece going in today so we will see how well it works.

Starting wire wheel cleanup of the hardware. Ansen AN305 6" from Amazon on the grinder - excellent wheel Based on ideas elsewhere on this site, rigged up a makeshift "lathe" and cleaned up the post. Cherne 269913 2 1/2" plug from Amazon and your drill of choice. Cheap HD casters, zip ties and...

Went with upgraded SKF (as was original) sealed metric bearings (6204/6205) for the pulley section (Italian made) and NOS USA made Nice SAE sealed bearings (1623) for the spindle. Gotta love eBay.

Success! You need a lot of force to get the spindle out of the quill. There are two bearings with a wicked interference fit. Additionally, the spindle is the same 0.625" its entire length (except the chuck taper) so the bearings have to move their entire travel against that fit. BTW, the two...

Here's my custom oak spindle removal block. Tomorrow we do battle.