Recent content by glennda5id

Why not buy it from National Auto tools?

The posts are very heavy and sort of a pain to move. I only move mine if I really need the space. If you welded on wheels it would probably be easier, but I'm not sure. To move mine, I tip it over on its side and use a wheel truck to move it to the side. You can route the hydraulic lines...

Is this thing going in a Ferrari Shop? Bolt it down!

Had another kid show up, been busy. Here are some more photos.

The locks reset as soon as you start going up again and go past a locking step on the lift tower. So if you unlock and start going up again it will auto relock.

I've been busy but the lift is installed!! Pictures to come... To answer the previous post. The lift draws ~10 amps when lifting with nothing on it. I have not had much time to use it, but lifting a 3200lb car it drew a steady 15 amps. I suspect it will take a good amount of weight before it...

Here are some pics.

Control joint question: I bought myself a lift and I am in the process of a concrete upgrade. Dennis, your thread has been a huge help. I am also following the Mohawk guide. My current slab is ~3" and not reinforced (no rebar). I cut out a 4' x 15' section and then dug down ~13" and keyed in...

Mine are double telescoping. I think only the early versions came with the triple arms.

8 ft. I will only be able to lift 4 feet or so. I do plan to set up some anchors in the driveway at some point so I can do full height lifting if a project calla for it.

Here are some pictures of me determining the location in my garage. Due the length of the lift arms, to get proper placement with my Subaru Outback, I needed to space the posts at 106" apart (front edge spacing). My cement is only 3" so I cut and demo'ed a 4ft x 15ft section. I am going to...

Yeah, mechanical anchors are fine assuming your concrete is in really good shape and you drill very nice holes. The epoxy anchor system gives more strength and more room for error with variances in concrete condition and hole quality which is why I am going this route. It does come at a price...

Mine only came with the no-name ones...I purchased a month or so ago.

Its a combination of things actually. Ill dive into it since it may be of use to some other folks C7000 base plates holes are ~3/4" diameter. I have seen some installs on this forum where the anchors were slightly misaligned and the users had a difficult time with the 3/4" bolts. Additionally...

I'm not comparing this to Maxjax. The C7000 ships with some M16 bolt (~5/8) - 7/8" hole, no name drop style anchors. There are no specs on these but the max tensile strength of any similar product on the marker is 16.5k. (Using Wejit PD58 as example). I doubt the no-name anchors are anywhere...