Recent content by HoosierDaddy

Hi. This got sidelined dealing with a relative's estate. When I could get back to this, I decided to set the back edges of the cabinets on the footing as you suggested. That footing is level and more square inches under the backs than the provided legs. Plus, it saves 3" of floor space...

Good idea. I will try to do that. There are no outlets on that wall (or the other side of it most of which is an external wall). The handyman who'll build the platform does electrical. Maybe he knows how to add an outlet without gutting the place or violating code.

Basically, like the picture. BUT you can see the edge of a plastic cabinet to the left. The plastic cabinet will either swap places with the right most metal cabinet or end up somewhere else. But there will be a 2-3" gap between the cabinet backs and the wall because the garage floor is lower...

Central Arizona. So not much corrosion, even outdoors. But if I use legs I'll leave the shrink wrap between the leg unit and the bottom of the cabinet. If you mean shims to allow end cabinet to be raised further than the legs allow, I'm planning on a level platform and not using legs but will...

Here is the first cabinet before tipping upright. Top of cabinet to the right of the picture. The row of slots are to lace a belt thru that can be attached to the wall for tip over protection. I will only do that if I can't figure a better way that also provides some support. All 4 waiting...

I'm sure the legs are plenty strong. But I want the tops to be one flat surface mostly for esthetic reasons. It's likely (depending on how accurate my non self-leveling laser is) there is not enough range to raise the lowest most cabinet level with the highest. And at the limits there are fewer...

I'm going with a platform. Not because of this but I don't think these are strong enough to hang with shelves loaded. The base is massively sturdier than the back and sides.

Since I am planning on a platform, I assembled these without the legs. And I modified the instructions. They called for bolting the sides to the base frontside up and then flipping it backside up to install the back panels. Since things are relatively unsupported until the 5 back panels are in...

But I also like the idea of nothing accumulating beneath (dirt, free range sockets, etc.). I'm having the "platform" built. My wood working tools are limited to one hand saw and a rip hammer.

Thanks! Not sure I need more workshop envy. ;) And if I'm to believe Babylon Bee, stop by my place on your move to Texas.

That sounds good. Legs are still in bags. One cabinet (left one in pic) unboxed now but here's how they looked where the freight company laid them. (Ignoring "this side up", per normal. LoL)

First time I've heard of a French cleat. This sounds promising but I'm not really picturing this: Hang one side level full length on the wall. Sounds like the side would be perpendicular to the wall? Until I understand this, maybe cabinet assembly method impacts doing that? Since these are...

Laser says..... ~2.25" drop in the 12 feet where the cabinets will be. Legs only have a little more than 1" adjustment before I wouldn't trust remaining threads. :( So will need to either stair- step the cabinets or have something under some of them.

Hi, my name is Randy. I'm a 73 year old retired IT guy and (4 year) Air Force veteran. I live in Scottsdale, Arizona with my wife of 49 years. I've moderated numerous car forums over the years. Currently down to just one Cadillac forum. I like to work on cars, but a little less each year for a...

It just occurred to me that if these bolt together square, maybe I can adjust the legs trial and error with just the base before I bolt the sides, back panels and top on. Would sure make it easier to pull just the base away from the wall over and over again to adjust back legs. And am I right...