Leveling freestanding metal cabinets

[HoosierDaddy]

So if the legs aren't long enough to make the cabinets level from end to end, wouldn't you have probably had the same problem with the internal hex adjustable legs? Anyway, I would move each one over 3" or whatever out from where it needs to rest, adjust the back inner foot, and slid it in place. You may have to adjust slightly, but shouldn't be too hard. If you don't want to stair step them and you don't have enough adjustment shim raise up the last couple. Or maybe you could French clear the last couple and put a lighter load in them if worried about strength and integrity. If you want it to look really good build a platform for all all the way across, but that sounds like a lot of work with the slanted floor.

I'm sure the legs are plenty strong. But I want the tops to be one flat surface mostly for esthetic reasons. It's likely (depending on how accurate my non self-leveling laser is) there is not enough range to raise the lowest most cabinet level with the highest. And at the limits there are fewer threads engaged increasing the risk of buckling. But not relevant since placing on a platform.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Here is the first cabinet before tipping upright. Top of cabinet to the right of the picture. The row of slots are to lace a belt thru that can be attached to the wall for tip over protection. I will only do that if I can't figure a better way that also provides some support.



All 4 waiting patiently for a handyman to build their platform with closed fronts and sides:




I was pleasantly surprised to find every panel shrink wrapped to protect them during shipping and assembly. I still haven't figured out how to start peeling it off other than where something lifts the wrap such as the locks. Most panels have no protrusions.



As mentioned, neither the instructions or manufacturer literature mention bolting these together. I guessed that was because this gauge metal would not enjoy side loads. BUT,.. the sides have what I can only surmise are a means to attach cabinets side by side. Picture is of two slots and a hole; two sets on each side (near front and back) about 35 inches from the base. Will try to source whatever Husky had in mind for these:

:

 

[mepstein]

I would bolt them together with some large washers on each side. Once you have everything level, there shouldn't be any stress on the sides. I think it just helps with positioning and aesthetics.

Get a piece of the plastic started with a plastic scraper, plastic spatula or anything that wont scratch the finish. Start on a less visible spot just to reduce the chance of scuffs, even with plastic.

Looks great!

 

[65ranchero]

plastic scraper, plastic spatula or anything that wont scratch the finish

Is there a way to shim between the leg and the cabinet bottom? I could give you the extra height needed
They make single edge plastic razors that fit in the standard scraper tool.
A tip : I'm not sure where you live but if it's in snow/salt areas, before bolting the legs on apply a little anti seize to all threads and keep them waxed ( keeps the corrosion to paint to a minimum.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Is there a way to shim between the leg and the cabinet bottom? I could give you the extra height needed
They make single edge plastic razors that fit in the standard scraper tool.
A tip : I'm not sure where you live but if it's in snow/salt areas, before bolting the legs on apply a little anti seize to all threads and keep them waxed ( keeps the corrosion to paint to a minimum.

Central Arizona. So not much corrosion, even outdoors. But if I use legs I'll leave the shrink wrap between the leg unit and the bottom of the cabinet. If you mean shims to allow end cabinet to be raised further than the legs allow, I'm planning on a level platform and not using legs but will keep this in mind if I end up using the legs. As for the threads that raise and lower the legs, they appear to be some type of composite material with square cross section rather than V shaped.

 

[wmihl]

I may have missed this while reading through all the posts. Will you be installing the cabinets in the location shown in the pic where they are all together? If so I would to the following.
Remove the base trim to be able to set the backs of the cabinets on the footing and flat against the wall.
Still build a treated lumber base and paint whatever color you want.
And if needed/wanted, anchor the backs of the cabinets with a few screws, so no chance of tipping over.
Then trim the base trim to but up to the cabinet to keep the finished look.

This way there will be no dead space for anything to crawl around or make a home.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I may have missed this while reading through all the posts. Will you be installing the cabinets in the location shown in the pic where they are all together? If so I would to the following.
Remove the base trim to be able to set the backs of the cabinets on the footing and flat against the wall.
Still build a treated lumber base and paint whatever color you want.
And if needed/wanted, anchor the backs of the cabinets with a few screws, so no chance of tipping over.
Then trim the base trim to but up to the cabinet to keep the finished look.

This way there will be no dead space for anything to crawl around or make a home.

Basically, like the picture. BUT you can see the edge of a plastic cabinet to the left. The plastic cabinet will either swap places with the right most metal cabinet or end up somewhere else.

But there will be a 2-3" gap between the cabinet backs and the wall because the garage floor is lower than home foundation and the wall is a few inches from the edge of the foundation. You can see that here: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...estanding-metal-cabinets.513570/post-10040851

Will have something that thick attached to the wall and the cabinets secured to that. I realize now, I'll need to have that or another something between the wall and the top edge of the cabinets or somehow, someday, something small enough will be sat on the top of a cabinet ang get knocked down behind.

 

[wmihl]

Basically, like the picture. BUT you can see the edge of a plastic cabinet to the left. The plastic cabinet will either swap places with the right most metal cabinet or end up somewhere else.

But there will be a 2-3" gap between the cabinet backs and the wall because the garage floor is lower than home foundation and the wall is a few inches from the edge of the foundation. You can see that here: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...estanding-metal-cabinets.513570/post-10040851

Will have something that thick attached to the wall and the cabinets secured to that. I realize now, I'll need to have that or another something between the wall and the top edge of the cabinets or somehow, someday, something small enough will be sat on the top of a cabinet ang get knocked down behind.

Doing it the way you just explained would then allow you to run a cord into one of the cabinets for a battery charger if you have DeWalt/Ryobi/Milwaukee....ect. Looks like there is a punch out in the middle of each back panel?

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Doing it the way you just explained would then allow you to run a cord into one of the cabinets for a battery charger if you have DeWalt/Ryobi/Milwaukee....ect. Looks like there is a punch out in the middle of each back panel?

Good idea. I will try to do that. There are no outlets on that wall (or the other side of it most of which is an external wall). The handyman who'll build the platform does electrical. Maybe he knows how to add an outlet without gutting the place or violating code.

 

[humber2]

Nice cabinets, have you considered putting a damp proof course under the treated wood frame?

 

[number9]

I’ve got 2 of those same cabinets sitting against each other and my garage floor slopes as well. The first cabinet is easy, the second cabinet I just scooted away from the wall enough to lay on the floor and slide my arm behind it to reach the foot and adjust it to be level with the first cabinet, then pushed it against the wall.

The floor slopes enough that the last feet on the second cabinet weren’t long enough to suit me (was like on the last thread). So I made 2 spacer blocks for those feet from 1x4 trim board and painted them black. You can’t see them without bending low and looking for them.

 

[finn]

When I had a garage with a sloped floor, I just ripped a couple of 2”x4”s to provide a level reference base. I don’t think I bothered with pressure treated. Regular white wood was still fine when I moved twenty years later.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I may have missed this while reading through all the posts. Will you be installing the cabinets in the location shown in the pic where they are all together? If so I would to the following.
Remove the base trim to be able to set the backs of the cabinets on the footing and flat against the wall.
Still build a treated lumber base and paint whatever color you want.
And if needed/wanted, anchor the backs of the cabinets with a few screws, so no chance of tipping over.
Then trim the base trim to but up to the cabinet to keep the finished look.

This way there will be no dead space for anything to crawl around or make a home.

Hi. This got sidelined dealing with a relative's estate.

When I could get back to this, I decided to set the back edges of the cabinets on the footing as you suggested. That footing is level and more square inches under the backs than the provided legs. Plus, it saves 3" of floor space (distance between edge of footing and the drywall). I tried to hire someone to build something to support the fronts but only one gave me any confidence and he dropped off the earth after agreeing on a price and scheduling the work.

So, I decided plan B would be to use the supplied legs and somehow extend them as needed where the garage floor has sloped away farther than the adjustments allow.

I put the cabinets on the footing and attached each back to the studs in the wall with 2 or 3 screws and fender washers. That prevents tipping. The adjustable legs were long enough for the front of the first cabinet and the left front corner of the next one.

Now I just have to figure out what to put between the cabinets and the remaining legs or between the legs and the floor.

Probably do what @number9 did.

Thanks all!