Recent content by htmdude57

Chuckster, you should change your username to Yuckster! :ROFLMAO: (cuz of your Pro tip!) But, seriously, about the purpose of this site, I think the admins need to put in the Rules section, that we can't guarantee results. No promises are made.

I agree with fitter30. There are 2 problems. The temperature of the house is overshooting. And the fan kicks on a second time. As he said, go into the thermostat to the anticipator setting and lower the number. That should cut down on the temperature overshoot. But for the extra fan...

The aluminum might melt. Melting point is 1220 degrees F.

I haven't experienced the "garage phenomenon". I looked up the Mariko Aoki thing, and that was named after a woman who had to go in bookstores. With me, I noticed the phenomenon when being in a Library. So, as the article says, maybe it is the smell of the old books? Several of you guys...

I believe a tall flame is not getting enough air. Any oil burner techs out there, correct me if I'm wrong, but I think if you feed in more air, the flame gets lower? Then that also makes me wonder- have you cleaned the blades on the blower? you should be able to do it with a skinny bottle...

What percentage of CO2 is it putting out?

Ok. Nevermind my answer in the #3 reply, regarding dirty fans. Your heater is naturally aspirated. It doesn't have a fan to blow air to the flame.

Soot is caused by lack of air to completely burn the fuel. When I was in the oil burner business, I saw a couple of times when someone sawed some 2x4s, and the furnace started producing soot. Due to the sap sticking to the blades of the squirrel cage fan in the oil burner. Cleaning the blades...

Shouldn't the vertical tracks have more slant (angled slightly off of vertical)? If you look at your tracks, the vertical looks to be perfectly plumb with the lines on the brown wall paneling. The way I understood it, the bottom of the vertical track should be closer to the street, and the top...

I'm not suggesting that a grounding rod hammered into the ground is INSTEAD of grounds in the outlets. I realize the bare wire screwed to the ground terminal on outlets is needed too. But was just wondering if an electrician would want to "fix" the panel too. I realize that he could run a fat...

It appears from last week's inspection report, that gfci's are present, I'm guessing in bathrooms and kitchen.

I guess it would be easy to attach the grounds IF there was sufficient wire inside each outlet, but if not, walls have to be opened up.

Just found this: panel was inspected in 1980. I assume this means it passed as existing? I'm guessing that it had 2 prong outlets at that time. So maybe the genius contractor last year changed them to 3 prong outlets so that they would look better? (white instead of black). But I'm also...

My son and gf are thinking about buying a recently remodeled house which was built in the 1920s. He sent me the inspection report, and it says that the 3 prong outlets have open grounds. The photo of the panel shows 2 feeder wires coming in, but I don't see any bare copper leaving the box going...

Depending on what you paid for it- either more than that, or less than that.