Recent content by JamesTreeby

If the concrete is sound, and you wish to proceed with an epoxy system, I would recommend the following: 1. Give the surface a light diamond grind (80 grit) to remove any surface laitance, loose concrete or other surface contaminants. Thoroughly clean and dry any dust off the floor. 2. Apply a...

Thanks mate, that does look very decent!

Can anyone recommend a quality Laser Distance Measurer. It will be used for calculating areas of large building floors and needs to have a minimum distance of 250 ft. Any help will be much appreciated.:thumbup:

Depending on how big the gap is between the top of the drain and the frame you have a couple of options: 1. Using a hand grinder and cup-wheel, round off the nose along the edge of the drain where the chips are creating a bull-nose finish - it would obviously look better to do it the entire way...

A local station just completed!

That is good of them to come out for no charge... let us know how they go about fixing it. I cant seem to see the pictures, but I would recommend cutting out the area that is failing, priming, filling with a resin/silica mix, grinding flat, and then re-applying the entire coating system over...

As mentioned, an expert will always know the importance of preparation. It would be silly not to grind...

I would recommend a 4 coat epoxy/urethane system - with the option of colored flakes for aesthetics. This will give you good strength, and if you do manage to damage/scratch the floor you can repair by sanding and putting another clear coat on. And, I always like to get the floor done FIRST...

We have used Stonehard products, and never had any issues with them. Can definitely recommend.

Pressure clean and seal with 2 coats of wet-look clear acrylic sealer. *Make sure substrate is completely dry before application* you shouldn't have a problem with it lifting. Or. You could grind the exposed aggregate off and create a 'honed concrete' finish, and then apply a penetrating or...

Get him to come and repair them. As mentioned above, its just a quick fix (a bit of sanding, and dripping some of the clear urethane topcoat into patch. Otherwise it may well damage the integrity of the floor, especially if any moisture gets under then coatings...

masking tape is the best when marking out epoxy, just make sure you pull it up as soon as you can, otherwise it can get hard to pull up when the epoxy dries.

If you want something that is going to last you another 25 years, stay away from a single pack paint, or anything water based. As mentioned above, if your current system is not pealing up, just worn through, then you could give the floor a light sand/grind, and solvent wipe, before applying...

The reason you would 'prep' or 'roughen-up' the smooth finished floor is to give the epoxy something to adhere to. It is important that there is a mechanical key in place for the coating to latch on to. Grinding or Shotblasting is always the best way to prep a floor, as it also removes any...

Jaguar, If you are starting to 'polish' the concrete, then your diamond blade is getting to hot and glazing over, try putting a bit of water down on the concrete as you grind, not much, just enough to keep them 'open'. If its still happening then maybe you can try changing to a lower grit...