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Epoxy DIY versus Hiring out

Foozle

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I have a new shop/barn with a 50x60 floor that I'd like to have coated with epoxy. I've never done before and will all the potential for issues around prep, incorrect application, then the subsequent problems if it has to be redone later, I've been considering just hiring someone to do.

What is a reasonable cost I should expect? I've received one quote so far that came in around $3 per square foot, which seemed high. He said he uses some kind of diamond etching maching, then epoxy, then a coating on top of that. I'm sure I could do for much less myself, but again I don't mind paying a reasonable amount to ensure it is done correctly.

Thanks!
 
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Trey T

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The method sounds correct. However, what epoxy brand and model is he quoting you?

$3/sqft is a competitive pricing. I have a 450sqft garage and it cost me about $700 just for the entire DIY job.

When you compare a professional-installed epoxy vs plastic flooring, they're about the same pricing.
 

kd3pc

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Hiring a "pro" is no guarantee that things will come out 100% to your liking. IF you hire a pro, make sure to see some of their work.

The key to a great looking and long lasting floor finish is PREP.

Your estimate is good, perhaps a little low as compared to the Northern Va area, but since you did not list a location, price estimate may be high or low. Others will chime in.

IF you do DIY make sure you have a good plan, as your floor is pretty good size. I would start in the "back" or to one side to learn on. You will need several people to help you. It is not a one person job.
 

Garage Flooring

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I have a new shop/barn with a 50x60 floor that I'd like to have coated with epoxy. I've never done before and will all the potential for issues around prep, incorrect application, then the subsequent problems if it has to be redone later, I've been considering just hiring someone to do.

What is a reasonable cost I should expect? I've received one quote so far that came in around $3 per square foot, which seemed high. He said he uses some kind of diamond etching maching, then epoxy, then a coating on top of that. I'm sure I could do for much less myself, but again I don't mind paying a reasonable amount to ensure it is done correctly.

Thanks!

Have a look at this article from Shea. Go over your requirements with them. If they are not willing to moisture test, grind, prime, coat, etc find another contractor.... http://allgaragefloors.com/choosing-floor-coating-contractor/
 

Zrexxer

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I paid about $3/sf when I had mine done in 2013. Mine was diamond ground, epoxy coated with Arizona Polymer materials, flull flake, and polyurethane clearcoat. I was very happy with the outcome for the money spent. But, I was doing a 400 sf garage, not a 3000 sf floor like you are.
 

Automobilist

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It's really quite simple to do yourself. My total cost for finishing our new 24 X 50 shop floor was about $1100. We don't care for the "flake" look, so we acid stained and then applied two coats of epoxy.
 

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Garage Flooring

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It's really quite simple to do yourself. My total cost for finishing our new 24 X 50 shop floor was about $1100. We don't care for the "flake" look, so we acid stained and then applied two coats of epoxy.

ABSOLUTELY people can do it themselves! For the epoxy route a diamabrush prep tool, good primer, base coat and top coat. Could also look at something like the Rust Bullet system for less prep.

EDIT: Instead of just editing my post, I will do so here. I added people can do it themselves next to absolutely because that is what I meant to say and did not say it. But as I indicate below we have over simplified it some. Lots of people do great jobs, but it requires a lot of work.
 
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LegacyIndustrial

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Prep is the key to longevity with ANY coating. Short change the process and you pay in the end.

We coach hundreds of DIY, contractors and handymen a month. You can certainly do this and have a very successful outcome.


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retfr8flyr

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Man you guys found some cheap contractors. When I was looking to do my floor, 2 years ago, the bids ranged from $5.25-$7.50 for a quality job with grind, primer, main coat, heavy flakes and clear ploy top coat for my 1000 sqft garage.

I had never done anything like this before but I decided to do it myself. With all the help from this forum and great materials I am very happy with the way it turned out. I rented 2 storage pods to put everything from the garage in, so I would have an empty space to work with. Counting all the equipment and everything it worked out to around $3 sqft for the finished floor. I was 68 at the time, so if I could do it, anyone can do it.

Here is a link to my make over thread, maybe it will help you decide. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=193742
 

CamarosRus

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Scotty and others, I did my own floor, hiring a un-employed "PRO" to do the application
with my assistance with rolling.

I first had my 1700 sq ft shot blasted by a local pro. I paid him $500 cash on a Sunday.
Shot Blasting is the best prep you can do..........however I feel that his equip, set-up or
Methodology left "corn-rows" that were still evident in the finished job.

We then primed the floor with BDC brand moisture blocking epoxy primer. Followed that
with Dove Gray Epoxy that we covered with Full 100% flakes. Next we scraped, swept
and vacuumed the chips (which I used again on the same job). Then my "pro" applied
one coat of clear epoxy clear followed by one coat of clear polyurethane.

My complaint is that he (the "pro") using a notched squeegee didnt apply the material
at a consistant thickness. This left areas of my floor still semi rough (from the flakes)
and some areas smooth as the clears fill in the "roughness created by full chipping.

My floor overall is still nice and I've had no adhesion issues in 18 months, however its had very light use.

My conclusions on the DIY subject is that experience can have A LOT to do with the finished product. I'm sure Scotty and other pros with come back with this and that what
"we" did wrong. I put a ton of for thought in this job. My "pro" hire had installed epoxy
at large jobs including BOEING in Everett, WA .

$3.00 a sq foot for finished epoxy is unheard of in my area. I was getting bids of $5.00
and up.....

I have all my receipts but honestly never did come up with my costs ...just glad to be past this "stage"
 

Garage Flooring

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Scotty and others, I did my own floor, hiring a un-employed "PRO" to do the application
with my assistance with rolling.

I first had my 1700 sq ft shot blasted by a local pro. I paid him $500 cash on a Sunday.
Shot Blasting is the best prep you can do..........however I feel that his equip, set-up or
Methodology left "corn-rows" that were still evident in the finished job.

We then primed the floor with BDC brand moisture blocking epoxy primer. Followed that
with Dove Gray Epoxy that we covered with Full 100% flakes. Next we scraped, swept
and vacuumed the chips (which I used again on the same job). Then my "pro" applied
one coat of clear epoxy clear followed by one coat of clear polyurethane.

My complaint is that he (the "pro") using a notched squeegee didnt apply the material
at a consistant thickness. This left areas of my floor still semi rough (from the flakes)
and some areas smooth as the clears fill in the "roughness created by full chipping.

My floor overall is still nice and I've had no adhesion issues in 18 months, however its had very light use.

My conclusions on the DIY subject is that experience can have A LOT to do with the finished product. I'm sure Scotty and other pros with come back with this and that what
"we" did wrong. I put a ton of for thought in this job. My "pro" hire had installed epoxy
at large jobs including BOEING in Everett, WA .

$3.00 a sq foot for finished epoxy is unheard of in my area. I was getting bids of $5.00
and up.....

I have all my receipts but honestly never did come up with my costs ...just glad to be past this "stage"


VERY WELL SAID

I think that WE as an industry have greatly oversimplified epoxy and we have paid for it with a lot of negative stuff out there. You are 100% accurate. Experience and effort count. A DIY person has to be committed to the project and may have an issue or two that need to be fixed.

As you and one other person indicated just because someone is a pro, does not mean they will do a good job. Look at their work and go over the requirements with them that Shea laid out in his post.

Some of the most impressive jobs I have seen are DIY jobs. There are a lot of people that can do amazing work and have the patience and skill to do it. Half the battle may very well be knowing if your that person :)

Materials also come into play. We've all gotten so caught up in 100% solids that we forget something with just a little bit of solvents can be easier to apply.

Everyone gets focused on price, but spending a little extra on prep and primer makes a world of difference.....
 

benwah

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VERY WELL SAID

Materials also come into play. We've all gotten so caught up in 100% solids that we forget something with just a little bit of solvents can be easier to apply.

As an example... Just had a friend who has a small garage and wanted something "basic" "VERY affordable" and not "overwhelming". Those were his words. So I thought about it for a minute and gave him a 67% solids Polyamidoamine Epoxy and a 67% solids Aliphatic Polyester Polyurethane.

He was able to roll on 3 coats of the light gray epoxy, and 1 coat of the polyurethane. $0.85 cents per square foot. He was under $400 for the project.
 

Dick in Wisconsin

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I'm getting ready to finish a new 1000sf garage/race shop and have some questions:

1. The concrete was poured last summer (August 2014). How long do I have to wait for the concrete to "cure" before finishing the floor?

2. I have radiant heat in the floor. Does this impact what I need to do? Change anything?

3. Since the floor is brand new, do I still need to diamond grind it?

4. I want to "mark" the floor (little rectangles where the race car tires should sit, etc.) and want the marks to show through the floor coating. What is the best way to do this? I was thinking of painting on top of the epoxy with a different color before the clear coat polyurethane goes on. Is that the right way to do that?

5. Can I do half the floor is one session and the other half in another session? The expansion joints were saw cut so it easy (at least I think it is) easy to separate the garage in half.

6. Is epoxy with a polyurethane clear coat still the best way to go if I'm going to being floor jacks to lift the race cars, heavy jack stands, probably dropping 85# Ford 9" gearsets and heavy racing transmissions on it, getting brake clean and racing gas once in a while on it. Will the epoxy and poly hold up with this kind of use?

Thanks!
 

Garage Flooring

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I'm getting ready to finish a new 1000sf garage/race shop and have some questions:



1. The concrete was poured last summer (August 2014). How long do I have to wait for the concrete to "cure" before finishing the floor?



2. I have radiant heat in the floor. Does this impact what I need to do? Change anything?



3. Since the floor is brand new, do I still need to diamond grind it?



4. I want to "mark" the floor (little rectangles where the race car tires should sit, etc.) and want the marks to show through the floor coating. What is the best way to do this? I was thinking of painting on top of the epoxy with a different color before the clear coat polyurethane goes on. Is that the right way to do that?



5. Can I do half the floor is one session and the other half in another session? The expansion joints were saw cut so it easy (at least I think it is) easy to separate the garage in half.



6. Is epoxy with a polyurethane clear coat still the best way to go if I'm going to being floor jacks to lift the race cars, heavy jack stands, probably dropping 85# Ford 9" gearsets and heavy racing transmissions on it, getting brake clean and racing gas once in a while on it. Will the epoxy and poly hold up with this kind of use?



Thanks!


1. That is more than enough time. We tell people a month.
2. Not typically
3. For epoxy yes. For Rust Bullet no.
4. Rust Bullet has color coats that can be used over all or part of the floor. There are a couple ways to accomplish same thing with epoxy.
5. Yes you can stop at the saw cuts. Some high build systems you are still going to have a defined line.
6. Really a lot of debate on that. There are good epoxy systems. We have had a lot of success with the Rust Bullet system which is all urethane. It's an easier install, more chemical resistant than epoxy and many too coats. But if you live in area where you can use high VOC product there are some great aliphatic urethane too coats.

If you are going epoxy consider full broadcast or even a Quartz system.


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retfr8flyr

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How many days did it take you to do it? Did you do the entire 1000sf at once? or in stages?

To actually put the flour down was just a weekend. All the prep work took me about 2 weeks for the actual work of moving everything out grinding, cleaning and such. I had a knee injury during this so the total time frame was longer. I did the primer on Friday, the main coat and flakes on Saturday, scrapped the flakes and cleaned up the excess Sunday morning, did the first coat of poly and waited the required time then did the second coat of poly.

Marked the floor off in sections and my wife helped me by doing the mixing while I was doing the spreading. It really almost requires at least 2 people to keep a wet edge going, while you are applying things.
 

retfr8flyr

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I marked the sections off with tape on the walls. It was fairly hot, 85°, when I did my floor, so I had a short working time on each mix. I divided my floor into 16 sections and my epoxy into 16 parts. That way I was sure I would always be able to keep a wet edge and have plenty of working time for each section. It worked out well, my wife would just finish mixing the new batch at the same time I was finishing the application. I could have probably made it into 8 sections and had it still work out but for a first timer I wanted the added insurance of the extra time.
 
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Foozle

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Thanks for all the quick and thorough responses! I'll try to find out a bit more information about the products he's using and also take a look at some of his work/check references. Sounds like if he'll do for $3/sq foot, it at least is in the ball park and maybe even lower than others have found it costing. I'm in South Carolina, so probably explains the lower cost compared to what other experienced.

On a slightly different topic, I have two wings to the barn that I'm keeping tractors, equipment, etc, so just had the builder put down a concrete sealer -- didn't think I needed the epoxy there. His application was pretty spotty and inconsistent. Is there a way to fix poorly applied sealer? Can I just put another coat on top? Not sure what sealer he used but I can find out and post. Once I get home this weekend I can post some photos as well. Thanks again!
 
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mnavillus

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A lot of good discussion on this topic! As an epoxy flooring contractor and owner of an installation business! Here are my thoughts! $3 per SF is a good deal! Maybe to good!

I'm a believer in hiring a PRO, however you can install your own floor but why? Cost? If you can't afford a PRO wait and save your money until you can! The cost ratio when you factor in the surface prep, years of application knowledge not to mention the warranty far out weigh the cost of DIY. I think as an industry we have allowed the "big box store garage floor kits" to tarnish our industry.

The only reason I can find for not hiring a PRO is because you want the personal satisfaction of doing the work your self. That spirit I can relate to!

As to your specific project!

Question: Did he give you any references to go look at his previous work?. Including but not limited to:... web page, phone numbers, face book, customers addresses, etc....

Question:Is he a local member of the BBB, Angies rating, local builders associations etc......These are some of things that can start to weed out "fly by contractors"

Question: Did he perform a moisture test?

1. Ask him for the spec sheets for the products he will be installing (ensure he uses what he says)

2. Confirm his surface preparation process....should be diamond grinding or scarifying ("we can discuss shot blast VS. diamond grinding in a different thread") .
If he is running you new floor up a concrete cove make sure he has the tools to properly prep your perimeter cove as well.

3. confirm his installation process...prime coat, 100% broadcast, HOW MANY TOP COATS OF of clear sealer?....at a $3 price point I doubt he is installing any type of "build coat"

Question: How may days?

4. finally, what type of warranty....not crazy claims of a lifetime warranty but @3 - 5 yr warranty from surface failures is a reasonable warranty!

Let me know should you have any follow up questions?

good luck!
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Foozle: you should be able to strip or sand it off pretty easily.
Recoat with a better grade product, two coats is best for even coverage.


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LegacyIndustrial

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i'm getting ready to finish a new 1000sf garage/race shop and have some questions:

1. The concrete was poured last summer (august 2014). How long do i have to wait for the concrete to "cure" before finishing the floor?
30 days but perform a moisture test to be sure. Plastic test is a good start.

2. I have radiant heat in the floor. Does this impact what i need to do? Change anything? no.

3. Since the floor is brand new, do i still need to diamond grind it?
yes, all floors should be ground unless you are performing a recoat.

4. I want to "mark" the floor (little rectangles where the race car tires should sit, etc.) and want the marks to show through the floor coating. What is the best way to do this? I was thinking of painting on top of the epoxy with a different color before the clear coat polyurethane goes on. Is that the right way to do that? choose a contrasting color and coat this with the same product used for the base coat. 100% solids. Tape it off with frog tape, pull tape once tacky. Clear over the entire floor once cured.


5. Can i do half the floor is one session and the other half in another session? The expansion joints were saw cut so it easy (at least i think it is) easy to separate the garage in half. yes, but better to bite the bullet and do all at once. You will agree once you have done this.

6. Is epoxy with a polyurethane clear coat still the best way to go if i'm going to being floor jacks to lift the race cars, heavy jack stands, probably dropping 85# ford 9" gearsets and heavy racing transmissions on it, getting brake clean and racing gas once in a while on it. Will the epoxy and poly hold up with this kind of use?

Friend, one of our best clients is a race team, never satisfied, out of pa.
They do exactly what you are describing. Of course sharp metal to epoxy can be a problem and therefore the better you protect your floor the longer it will last.

Thanks!
IMG_0329.jpg

IMG_0330.jpg
 
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Foozle

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Thanks Scotty. I found out they used MasterKure CC 250 SB initially to seal the floor. Hopefully I can either remove and redo -- or maybe just anothre coat on top will help.
 
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Foozle

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I spoke with the contractor and here is what I found out. He uses a diamond grind preparation on the concrete. Then he uses a Roll-on-Rock system, which includes a 4195 base/primer (8 lb moisture holdback rating), flakes applied to rejection, then 1 coat of 5073 polyurea. He said the 4195 didn't require a separate primer as it was a base/primer itself. He says the epoxy is warrantied from the manufacturer for life in terms of adhesion. He personally warranties his workmanship for 1 year. He fills contraction joints with a foam backer rod, then Quickjoin 200 (Euco) before applying epoxy. He would says that with that much flakes and one coat of topcoat, he generally doesn't need to add additional anti-slip. He's been in business for 8 years. I was referred to him by a builder friend who has used him with success in past -- and he offered to show me some of his work. He was familiar with moisture testing, but I didn't get the impression that he did testing in every case (which is a bit of a red flag to me given how easy it is to at least do a plastic test). He didn't mention anything about PH testing but I'm guessing he doesn't do that (should you always test PH?).

Let me know if anyone has thoughts on this in light of the $3/sq foot rough estimate he gave me. He's coming out this weekend to look at the site and said he'd give a more accurate estimate after seeing the site. The $3 was just a ballpark.

Thanks
 

CamarosRus

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Scotty, After seeing my own "pro" apply material to my floor using a squegee.........I believe this is the most critical step needing experience.

Also when you go from one rolled area to the next poured area (and so on) how does one better learn how to avoid the stop-start lines.

Which mfgs does anybody know of that has the best YOU TUBE videos.

What are the small tools/gauges you can use to measure your mil thickness as you squeegee.

I didnt think that the back rolling took all that much talent or experience relative to the
initial application of the actual material.

I bought my products from a distributor in Seattle area. His three or four brands are never mentioned here...........which leads me to say there must be dozens of epoxy
blending manufactures (like LEGACY) who all buy the base chemical components from 2 or 3 huge multi national chemical companies ??????
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Scotty, After seeing my own "pro" apply material to my floor using a squegee.........I believe this is the most critical step needing experience.

Also when you go from one rolled area to the next poured area (and so on) how does one better learn how to avoid the stop-start lines.

Which mfgs does anybody know of that has the best YOU TUBE videos.

What are the small tools/gauges you can use to measure your mil thickness as you squeegee.

I didnt think that the back rolling took all that much talent or experience relative to the
initial application of the actual material.

I bought my products from a distributor in Seattle area. His three or four brands are never mentioned here...........which leads me to say there must be dozens of epoxy
blending manufactures (like LEGACY) who all buy the base chemical components from 2 or 3 huge multi national chemical companies ??????
Yes Chuck, it is common to use a notched squeegee to help meter out a consistent amount of material across the floor.

A gauge rake is another tool, however more often used with thicker products, slurries, overlays, etc...

There is also a mils gauge. However, it is relative to the area being checked and most often the installer is moving along at a pretty good clip.
 
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Foozle

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Couple other quick questions. If you don't see condensation on plastic moisture test can you skip the calcium chloride test?

Is there a site where I can find reputable contractors if I wanted to get a couple more competitive bids in the Greenville, Sc area?

Thanks
 

mnavillus

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foozle...As to the moisture test....most will stop after performing plastic sheet test, Which really only gives you a Yes/no answer! There are additional testing PH, and probes if you find you have a moisture issue!

However another solution for areas in which high moist transfer rates are present is to utilize Materials for the project that are "breathable"...Basically what this means is the materials will not seal the concrete but will allow the concrete to breath!

Hope this helps!

let me know if you have more questions?

good luck!
 

Garage Flooring

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foozle...As to the moisture test....most will stop after performing plastic sheet test, Which really only gives you a Yes/no answer! There are additional testing PH, and probes if you find you have a moisture issue!

However another solution for areas in which high moist transfer rates are present is to utilize Materials for the project that are "breathable"...Basically what this means is the materials will not seal the concrete but will allow the concrete to breath!

Hope this helps!

let me know if you have more questions?

good luck!

I think it would help a lot of folks here if you would elaborate on this
 

RonnieC

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I paid a professional outfit 2 years ago to do my three-car garage. They handled all the cleaning, prep and application. Came out great, no problems since. They were done in two days. I over analyze everything, so if I had done it myself, it still wouldn't be done! :lol:
 

NitroShark

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Is there a site where I can find reputable contractors if I wanted to get a couple more competitive bids in the Greenville, Sc area?

Thanks



I did my own 1685 sq/ft but got bids from $ 5-6 sq/ft from reputable installers in the Greenville SC area.

Shawn
 

mnavillus

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I think it would help a lot of folks here if you would elaborate on this

Here is the scenario!

Concrete is a mineral/salt rich, porous material full of tiny channels and voids.

These pathways are used for migration of fluids and vapors. Migration is due to simple physics - forces working to achieve temperature, humidity, concentration, or pressure (hydrostatic) equilibrium.

Additionally, dissolved metal salts in the migrating water can form relatively large calcium/potassium silicates upon reaching the concrete surface. This ‘swelling' can result in pressure build-ups of 1000 pounds. That's a lot of pressure for any coating bond to resist.

Added to this situation! Most coatings lose bond strength, or simply will not adhere at all, when applied to a damp, wet, or saturated surface.

Consider the following prior to construction and/or building or prior to installing a new floor system! How dry is my concrete surface? Can it contain more moisture than the coating manufacturer would recommend for optimum adhesion?


Possible solutions!

VAPOR BARRIERS

The pre-construction solution is to use a vapor barrier under the concrete. This vapor barrier is nothing more than a heavy plastic sheet. Use caution not to damage the plastic sheeting or tear it during installation as this will lessen the effect. Older buildings and garages often do not have a vapor barrier.

Sometimes it's easy to tell if you're lacking a much needed vapor barrier. There could be water ( smelly water) under the carpet or rug sitting directly on the concrete. If the surface is painted, there might be water filled blisters in the paint.If the concrete is not covered, it could be covered with tiny crystals, the result of mineral salts being left behind by the migrating moisture.

One way to test the exposed concrete for moisture migration is to tape a sheet of plastic (several square feet in area) to the floor and see if water condenses under the plastic. however, moisture migration might occur only after rainstorms, spring thaws and etc..

SOLUTIONS FOR A VAPOR BARRIERLESS FLOOR

There are lots of partial solutions, but no ‘sure thing' short of pouring new concrete over a new vapor barrier.

A ‘Breathable' floor system is one common solution. These "systems lets the moisture pass through the floor coating and very little impact on coating interference. There are a growing number of porous, coatings, and other products on the market. For garages/warehouses and ect we currently use GP 3460 epoxy primer and GP 4409 polyurethane clear top coats for areas in which we feel moisture is a concern. This is the installation I personally prefer but there are other ways to go.

Next are sealers that soak into the concrete and form crystals within the voids and channels inside the surface of the concrete. This reduces permeability and porosity of the concrete, generally restricting the flow of fluids, but not vapors. This treatment is easy and quick and just might ‘densify' the concrete enough to solve, or greatly reduce, the moisture problem and assist in the bonding of "regular epoxy" which would normally fail, by lessening the amount of mineral salts, etc. that can migrate to the concrete surface causing - coating interface. "pre-primer"


Finally, there are floor epoxies that can bond to wet or damp surfaces directly and resist the pressures (over 1000 pounds) that can build up on the surface of the concrete to minimize coating interface. By sealing the concrete surface, moisture, concentration, and pressure equilibriums would be reached inside the concrete which stop the flow or movement of moisture, although not its presence.

Bond adhesion, however, is influenced by more than just moisture levels. A good, strong bond requires careful surface preparation. The surface must be clean, dust free, solid (not deteriorating), and have a good profile (microscopic peaks and valleys) to maximum surface contact. However the presence of pre-existing coatings, sealers or grease/oil spills could preclude a good bond.


Finally, Moisture and salts can and do migrate through concrete slabs as they seek equilibrium with the environment above the concrete. The resulting pressures and condensing water vapor can ruin a coated floor.

After-the-fact solutions include using a breathable surface coating, reducing the porosity and permeability of the concrete and/or using epoxies that can bond sufficiently well to moisture rich concrete.

Hope this helps!
 

JamesTreeby

Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2015
Messages
15
Location
Brisbane, Australia
How did you mark the floor off? Masking tape? Duct tape? Gorilla tape?

I'm wondering if I should "help" someone else doing this to learn what goes into it before I tackle it myself.
masking tape is the best when marking out epoxy, just make sure you pull it up as soon as you can, otherwise it can get hard to pull up when the epoxy dries.
 

TooMuchHair

Well-known member
Joined
May 25, 2014
Messages
64
Good stuff there mnavillus ! Last year when I did my 60'x60' x6" thick pad myself, EVERY pro that I talked to said THEY would not put down a vapor barrier (retarder). They said it cause problems when finishing. Part of the many reasons I did it myself, even though I had never done it before. Now I am so glad that I at least used a 6 mil black poly retarder. Thanks
 
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Foozle

Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2015
Messages
22
I decided to hire out in the end. I think the $3 per sq foot was well worth it after I saw what was involved with the floor prep, in particular. I'm attaching a couple pics. Thanks again for all the good advice.
 

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TRlPPlN

New member
Joined
Feb 24, 2014
Messages
2
I decided to hire out in the end. I think the $3 per sq foot was well worth it after I saw what was involved with the floor prep, in particular. I'm attaching a couple pics. Thanks again for all the good advice.

that looks good!
 
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