Recent content by jar944

SKF jem, and buy it from a known retailer, lots of counterfeit bearings. I would be inclined to change to a 2rs from the z/zz. They don't spin fast enough for the seals to be a problem. Bearings should be the same across all 4 versions

First farmshow. Had to go back to his ancestral homeland (western Pennsylvania) to see a real fair. And went to visit his inheritance (the donkey). Of course he (the small human) grabbed the lower electric fence with both hands.... Apparently it's grounded out somewhere.

I paid a bit more attention to stone placement and bedding a few years ago on the taller retaining walls. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/jar944s-3car-cabinet-shop.339476/page-11#post-9271751

I stacked 3 pallets worth of stone as a border in early 2021 as berry (raspberry, blackberry, blueberry and rhubarb bed) the neighbors trees are too large now so we are pulling that bed out and reusing the stone 2021 beds The black plastic is just 7 mil plastic.

This was mostly just stacking rocks, bigger on the bottom and whatever was decent looking and flat for the cap. The fence is a fun thing to hang on currently.

Mostly trying to keep up with the yard, though part of that is a flower/tree bed expansion. And a fence to keep toddlers from falling off the seating wall.

Looks like a mudsill from a stacked stone foundation.

1.5 would be a deal beaker. I shoot 1.25 and 2" most, with 2" being more prevalent.

If you mean the standard commodity 40/50mm knives, whoever is cheaper. They are all the same. Amazon cmt knives use to be the least expensive option (through routerbit world.) I bought 99% of my knives there.

Mine are mostly amana, though I do have a cmt head in there as well. I'm not sure about the whitehill knives. I think brent stanley mentioned to me that the whitehill blocks are too deep to use standard commodity knives. That said the standard blocks *should be able to use the whitehill knives

They work fine if you are hitting the studs or sold wood.

It's bad form on stain grade, and the bigger the hole the more filler applications on paint grade. They always telegraph eventually. Not to mention prefinished applications. I wouldn't use a stock driver blade on a 18g nailer in paint grade trim.

My plan is a vicrorian 3 lobe profile tangential rail with balusters to match (they shouldbe dovetailed into the treads). I'd really like to build a octagonal turned newl for the bottom of both stairs but that might be too victorian for my house. If I can make it work with the existing stairs...

After the parlor, study and screened in deck roof, but before the basement kitchen, porch (additional entrance) and new main staircase. The list is longer that that.

Get the 18 before the 15