Recent content by Jaxrunner

I would say no. In general, when ever you have a splice in the beam you need a support directly under it. The other option in to make a connection strong enough for the loads in every direction. The cable seems like it is just holding the walls from falling out.

There are several variables to sizing your ridge beam. You really need to give us a better idea of your garage design. If you give me more information I do not mind doing a quick calculation to give you an idea on the size beam you will need. I have never in 9 years sized an engineered beam...

A 24' is going to be the largest 2x12 w/ grade stamp on it. You can get larger one's milled if you are lucky. Then you have get them dry and inspected. Your best bet is going to be to get an engineered beam.

good luck finding a 32' 2x12.

PM me your email and i will send you what i did for one of my clients. It turned out pretty nice. It's a "Barn style" garage with a gambrel roof and shed roof on each side. He had similar restrictions you are dealing with. The ridge height was 24'-2" .It's 1744 sq. on the first floor and the...

Those are "home made trusses". The cleanest home made job I have seen. It works, so i would just pretty copy what they already got built.

You end up adding that additional load to the "ridge beam" (peak). Which it might be able to take it and it might not. Hard to tell with out doing the calc's.

We call those gussets down here in the south. :thumbup:They work great to stiffen up the members. I think x-brace would eat up a lot of the space. I think the plywood deck attached to the joist would prevent the torsion.

I only seen the 10'. I am not sure where 20' came from. With a 20' span you are going to have to add another bearing point or us I-joist. It's going to be hard to find 20' 2x8's not to mention to carry there own weight with that span.

The new joist can be used as a " tension tie" on their own and even better with plywood. The connection from the joist to the wall is the weakest link. installing blocking @ the panel edges (in your case using the existing wall) and nailing the plywood to the blocking/existing wall.

#2 syp - that grade #2 Southern yellow pine (syp Home depot does have those hangers. just don't place all of that load in one are or in the middle of the span.

You need more or better vents to move the moist air. Do you have any vents on the roof?

The depth and size of the poles is determined by the soil type, vertical load, laterial load, height of unbraced length of poles, total height of the building, etc. 2'-4' sounds about right not doing any calc's. 6x6 seem to be too small unless you are planning on using a lot of poles. You might...

with a 10' span 2x8's #2 syp would work @ 24"o/c. If you are going to have some heavy stuff up there you might want to use 2x10's or go to 16"o/c. As far as the brackets, see if you have the room to just bear the new joist directly on the existnig wall. If not, look at using a Simpson top flange...

Be sure to size you headers based on you truss loads not some ones span chart. The 4' o/c truss could be a good idea but any larger o/c spacing will cost you a good bit of money with florida building code requirements. I see you are in Clay county, if you permit as owner builder they wil not...