Recent content by JayCrash450

This thread just gave me some great ideas. I don't have time right now as I'm trying to finish other projects but why doesn't someone do a kydex tray? That would be the ultimate as its lighter than plaster, fits tighter and cleaner than foam and will be custom molded. All that would need to be...

Good deal. I have the smaller 3 set of prybars and they are very good quality. Im thinking about picking up the 36" but that really is quite large.

If no leaks are apparent at the wheel cylinders or Pistons than it's likely a bad master. Agreed with the poster above, a bad booster usually doesn't result in a pedal with no resistance...quite the opposite.

You could do that but most finish carpenters would tell you to use 100% shellac as anything can bond to it and will do a good job of dealing to wood since soft woods soak up everything like crazy. Many woodworkers like zinnser shellac. Or use a good quality sanding sealer.

With what you have going on I would use a tinted varnish. Tinted varnish will provide good coverage, blend and even out the wood grain. However, it's still opaque enough to allow a subtle grain of wood and not look like a painted piece of wood. By the way, tinted varnishes come in all kinds of...

Have to admit, regardless of the massive speculation, that I would have liked to have swiped one up before the sell out. There's no way I should be buying one due to my recent garage investment but I am envious of the deal nonetheless. This thread has been massively entertaining. The naysayers...

I know what you mean. I added a large attic storage to try and reclaim as much room as possible in the garage. I will be using a lot of welding blankets during my grinding and welding that's for sure. That's the other reason why I ran my 220v receptacles and one air drop at the front of the...

The floor ran about $5.20 a square foot which I felt is very reasonable considering the product and how it was applied. The installer ground the floor, primered with a vapor barrier, filled large cracks with epoxy filler, gray 100% solids gray epoxy, full 5/8 flake to refusal, cemseal to get...

Thank you. Things are coming along nicely. I have to work this Saturday but my hope is that I'm able to start on the metal panels, still not exactly sure what kind of metal paneling I am going to do. This thread has kind of morphed and I didn't want to get off flooring subjects so I started a...

The cracks were repaired using vaporsol joint filler and the first coat of epoxy 400, 100% solids went down. Marble color 5/8 flake to refusal. Today is chemseal to get tge flakes to lay flat then a coat of clear epoxy 400. Tommorrow will be a coat of polyurethane and the floor will be...

The floor has been well grounded and a coat of vaporsol moisture barrier/primer is down. Tomorrow will be vaporsol crack repair and first coat of epoxy with flakes. Tomorrow will be a very exciting day as that is truly going to show the final look of the floor.

yurite! :D As much reading as I have done I never looked at it that way! Of course it makes sense that 100% solids will allow for more build per coat. Besides allowing for more build, I always assumed 100% was just simply a far more durable product, not necessarily because of build thickness...

The garage is all cleared out and ready for the grinding and patching process tomorrow. I'll update as the next few days go by to show the finished floor product.

Definitely over thinking. Nothing wrong with painting the mold first. Since it sounds like you have some time before the epoxy guys show up you might as well knock that out. Do any touch ups later after the epoxy goes down. I wouldn't worry about any adhesion issues. The epoxy should be well...

Thank you for the kind words. The band saw came from my father in law. Very nice guy to give a very solid bandsaw. Some people think I'm a little crazy for the amount of money and time I've put into this shop but I can't wait for some projects in here. I have a few dirt bikes and will have a...