epoxy over flakes

[JayCrash450]

Hello all, I love seeing all your wonderful work spaces. Mine, through the course of a year and a half, is finally to a point where I am nearing completion. It's only a 2 car garage (22'x20') but is going to be a great place to work in.

Onto my question. I have an epoxy guy doing my floor next week. I am very confident in his process. He is grinding, vapor solve primer, 100% solids epoxy, full flake to refusal, chemseal (this is to help the acrylic flakes lay flat again, I guess they have a tendency to cup after broadcast into this type of epoxy or due to the water based epoxy that goes on next), a coat of epoxy 100 (this is a 51% solids water based epoxy), then polyurethane.

Does the resident floor experts agree this will result in a very durable long lasting floor? From my research it appears so but I was mainly wondering why he wouldn't use epoxy 400 which is 100% solids epoxy over the top of the flakes as well as opposed to just the base. All products are from Arizona polymer and he has been very open about the process and products he is using. The installer indicated the water based epoxy 100 will handle uv light better from yellowing but I thought the poly would take care of most of that. Ultimately I will be grinding, dragging floor jacks around, etc and want the most durable EPOXY floor possible short of going to a Quartz system which would be awesome but a little out of my price range. All installed I'm looking at about $5.10 a square foot which I feel is very fair considering all that will be done.

Please opine. Pics to follow soon.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Sounds fine. Having that last coat of urethane is a great touch and pricing sounds fair as well.


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[JayCrash450]

Some really bad pics. I'll update a few more. Right now everything is a disaster from all the work. Today is clean out day to get ready for epoxy on Monday.

Might as well give some specs of the project. I have installed a window (more light and something to watch te kids out front from), reframed the ceiling to add attic storage, installed new man door, pulled in 100 amp sub panel with receptacles 4' on center, added large wash tub, relocated water heater outside, installed 8500 garage door opener, cabinets, drywall, plumbed in copper airlines from my compressor that is now outside, ran multiple 220v receptacles for my welders, 26- t8 lights, and I'm sure a few things I missed. Can't wait for this floor. I plan on installing some metal paneling on the lower half of the wall, that why the paint stops there.

Again, I'll get better pics today.

 

[JayCrash450]

Sounds fine. Having that last coat of urethane is a great touch and pricing sounds fair as well.


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Thanks Scotty. Definitely respect your opinion. I planned on doing this myself but I just rarely have the time lately. Would there be a benefit to doing a 100% solids over chemseal? I would pay the increased material cost if there is.

 

[benwah]

You have pretty much answered your own question.

The epoxy 100 (51% solids) will leave you with just that, ~51% of what is rolled on.

epoxy 400 (100% solids) will leave you with 100% of what's rolled on.. More build, more thickness.

Sounds like you're using Arizona Polymer Flooring, amirite?

 

[JayCrash450]

You have pretty much answered your own question.

The epoxy 100 (51% solids) will leave you with just that, ~51% of what is rolled on.

epoxy 400 (100% solids) will leave you with 100% of what's rolled on.. More build, more thickness.

Sounds like you're using Arizona Polymer Flooring, amirite?

yurite!

As much reading as I have done I never looked at it that way! Of course it makes sense that 100% solids will allow for more build per coat. Besides allowing for more build, I always assumed 100% was just simply a far more durable product, not necessarily because of build thickness, but due to more........solid like material....????? Makes more sense to put it in that sense though.

As it turns out, my installer is using epoxy 400 (100%) solids on top of the cemseal. Not 51%, for whatever reason I was under that impression. I was mistaken. Which is great, should be a quality job here.

I don't want to start a manufacturer/supplier war. Is Arizona Polymer stuff as good as others? Legacy? I only compare Legacy because they have a good following here and based on the support, they absolutely should. I figure that most epoxies product are mixed/manufactured by only a few companies in the world and any given supplier puts their own little twist on the final product.

 

[benwah]

Sorry have been swamped! I have a customer that uses APF regularly and is quite happy with it. TBH I have never used it so I cannot give an honest answer. Check out this guy's Facebook. He used APF resin with metallic pigments - https://www.facebook.com/QualityEpoxy?fref=ts

 

[OJ Bartley]

I just wanted to chime in to say I like the wall colours, and can't wait to see what it looks like with the wainscoting done too. Good luck with the floor, sounds like you're in good hands!

 

[JayCrash450]

Thank you. Things are coming along nicely. I have to work this Saturday but my hope is that I'm able to start on the metal panels, still not exactly sure what kind of metal paneling I am going to do. This thread has kind of morphed and I didn't want to get off flooring subjects so I started a seperate thread to detail what I have done this far. Here's the link http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=292706

This is an updated pic of where the floor is at. The first coat of cemseal has gone down and 100% solids clear epoxy is going down this afternoon. This pic is from right after the flaking process was complete. No other top coats.