Recent content by Jayhem

We just built a 40x60 pavillion with 6x6 posts on 9 foot centers and they didn't need to notch the headers in either. Just 5" galvanized nails, 3 per header 2x12 end were all the engineered design required. Our snow load is only 30 though. 2 headers one on each side of the posts.

I definitely like the perma-column idea. I don't think modern pressure treated wood will last more than 15-20 years below grade and when it starts to go how would you know?

That actually makes sense. Fortunately my land is on a hill top with ground that stays dry 95% of the year. I can see though that with just gravel floor ventilation would be important to keep the humidity down in the barn.

Thanks! I do already have a 12x20 shed on a pad with full gambrel loft for motorcycle, lawn tools and box storage in the loft so that stuff can stay out of the garage/car port. I may end up building a pole carport for the cars and add walls to that at a later time so that I can afford the pole...

I've been dragging my feet on the detached garage build because I'm still not sure I want to spend $30,000 on a garage next to the house that will only be used to park cars and store the kids bikes, toys, etc. So I'm considering instead to build a less impressive garage or even a 24x32 car...

Thanks for the tips! I'd rather do the pour before the stud walls or roof is on as it will be easier to get the concrete truck in there since the garage is 40' deep and there is no access from the sides, the truck will pretty much have to back over my garage door opening stem wall which will be...

Good points. Makes sense. Around here #57 granite is used under slabs in a 2-4" layer and lightly compacted (you can't really compact granite, just settle it). All slabs are either floating or monolithic with integral footings. We have a frost depth of like 2-4 inches and insulated garages...

that's what I was thinking. If the stem wall was just under the slab at the door opening it would be more likely to crack at that location but I'm no concrete guy either. If I can end my footings and stem wall where I planned to for the OH door rough opening that would save me a lot of extra...

I'm planning a perimeter footing and 5 course block stem wall on my 26x40' build for 2 reasons: A. to deal with a 2.5' of off grade on my site from left to right. B. because I want 1-2feet of concrete wall above my slab so I can spray things off in there in summer without damaging my stud walls...

No sense to insulate without a heat source. But the most cost effective method is what my Uncle did and he's in Erie, PA. 3/4" foam board with reflective thermal backing. He heats a 30x28' garage with a small wood stove and it stays a comfortable 50-60F inside on the coldest winter day.

Mike, This is an excellent build! I'm about an hour from you in Western Culpeper County. I'm in design phase of my own custom garage, 26x40'. Also using Attic Trusses for storage up top as well as potential to turn the attic into a game room/office in future. I had a couple questions...

Thanks for the advice. I have to work with this ceiling height so the choice comes down to which lift but that is not in the budget until the garage build is paid off in a few years.

Unfortunately there are 2 issues with going higher: 1. Unless it's permitted as a "barn" we are not permitted to have the garage roof peak higher than the house. It's only 4" lower right now. 2. My staircase access to the attic is already at maximum rise/run. If I had to make it go higher...

Both 3rd and 4th cars would be small. One compact and one convertible sport car that would be smaller than compact (I have always wanted to put a LS2 motor in a Honda S2000 convertible). The car would be less than 4' tall. :bounce: I laughed at your height figuring. I don't think my hair is...

Here's what it looks like to scale, using an average full size pickup (5.5' from frame to roof and 7' wide (not including mirrors) 6" from roof to drywall I'd still have about 5 1/2" feet under the frame. That's enough for me I think.