Recent content by jbwilkins

This is typical, but codes vary by location (4' when the structure is over 2 floors.) You also need to include heavy washers for plates (typically square). Typically, retrofitting, you'd use wedge anchors, or something similar to the Simpson Strong Tie Titen HD.

Since the pickets look to be pine, I'm guessing they were treated, to begin with.

They typically use pressure washers around here.

We recently ran into romex issues in Inland Empire in Ca. Distributor (United) is sold out and doesn't expect new inventory until May. Oh, and a $0.17 box is now running $0.35....

....it's about to get worse. I just got a call from my Schneider (Square D) Rep. They have to reduce production for the next 6 weeks due to resin shortages. They had ramped up to ~130% of last year's production rate, but are now going to have to go back to only 100% until the mess at the...

I would suggest your run some numbers and get with the local POCO and see what it would cost. While the initial investment of having the POCO run power may be high, your long term cost of a generator, servicing the generator, propane, diesiel, etc. may be more. Understand, desiel, propane or...

Using too high of a MERV rating can kill your HVAC, or at least make it much LESS efficient and use more energy. Be careful what you use. Google it as read several articles. Most systems are designed for less than 1" of water column drop across the filter. A 1" filter with a MERV of 13 may...

You didn't state what kind of foundation it is, but..... You're probably on a monolithic slab in FL, and it could be post-tensioned. If it's a post-tensioned slab 'knocking out the garage slab' is a non-starter.

~25"x36" drip pans at Autozone and Advanced can be had for $11-$12......They're lightweight metal.

I use a propane wall mount radiant heater in my unheated/uninsulated garage similar to this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dyna-Glo-30-000-BTU-Vent-Free-Infrared-LP-Wall-Heater-IR30PMDG-1/206556627 30k BTU's and run it off 20-30lb cylinders. It puts out enough heat to keep the space (25X30)...

1950s build means you're probably dealing with a 1x3 T&G floor (i'm guessing Oak too). You're not going to 'hurt' it unless you sand an entire inch, which will take forever. A belt sander is the way to go, it will remove the material the quickest. You just need to be prepared to refinish...

Because what you're asking is, in no way, viable, I'm going to immediately suggest you get a structural engineer involved. You can probably gain a few inches above the lift, but you're going to have to reduce the span of the floor joists over that area so that smaller members will span.

Your good designer should also ask what 'type' of load you plan on hanging from them. A point load, a large load in one place, requires a different design than an 'attic storage' load where the weight is spread across a much larger place.

They're 'springy' because the builder or engineer cheaped out. It all comes back to the design of the system, it can be as solid or 'springy' as you're willing to live with.

While it seems reasonable based on today's costs, it may just be a starting point. While it looks to be simple until they start doing demolition you don't know what they are going to run into.