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Sleeve Anchor Spacing

TCinWI

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Apr 4, 2023
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5
Hello, I am very glad there is this forum.
I bought a home with a very nice 3 car garage however the prior owners built the garage with NO anchoring of the Garage Walls Sill Plate to the concrete slab. I am prepared to add much needed Sleeve anchors to secure the garage. I will be using 1/2 Sleeve Anchors. Can anyone help me determine the best spacing of these on the garage sill plate? Is there a formula to determine this amount? Thank you in advance for your help,
 
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jbwilkins

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Mar 16, 2016
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310
Location
Nashville Tn
1 foot from the end of wall also door opening. 6 feet apart.
This is typical, but codes vary by location (4' when the structure is over 2 floors.) You also need to include heavy washers for plates (typically square). Typically, retrofitting, you'd use wedge anchors, or something similar to the Simpson Strong Tie Titen HD.
 

Shiftless

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East Bay SFO
How did the previous owners ever get signed off on that garage build without any anchors?
What other short cuts have you found ?
 

Bondo

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Dec 22, 2007
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Location
Greenfield, Maine
Hello, I am very glad there is this forum.
I bought a home with a very nice 3 car garage however the prior owners built the garage with NO anchoring of the Garage Walls Sill Plate to the concrete slab. I am prepared to add much needed Sleeve anchors to secure the garage. I will be using 1/2 Sleeve Anchors. Can anyone help me determine the best spacing of these on the garage sill plate? Is there a formula to determine this amount? Thank you in advance for your help,
Ayuh,..... They make Tap-cons that big now,...... Why screw around with sleeve anchors,......
With the Tap-con, drill the hole, drive it in, 'n done,....
 
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TCinWI

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Apr 4, 2023
Messages
5
This is typical, but codes vary by location (4' when the structure is over 2 floors.) You also need to include heavy washers for plates (typically square). Typically, retrofitting, you'd use wedge anchors, or something similar to the Simpson Strong Tie Titen HD.
Thank you for your help. I researched what type of bolt to use and found that the Sleeve anchor was the easiest? I also have a call into our villiage Building Inspector.
 
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TCinWI

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Apr 4, 2023
Messages
5
Ayuh,..... They make Tap-cons that big now,...... Why screw around with sleeve anchors,......
With the Tap-con, drill the hole, drive it in, 'n done,....
I've never heard of Tap-cons, I will look into that. I have a 1/2 Hammer Drill to do this job. The garage is a wide 3 car non insulated piece of work that prior owners built. One side is 2 cars, the other a 1 car.
 
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TCinWI

Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2023
Messages
5
How did the previous owners ever get signed off on that garage build without any anchors?
What other short cuts have you found ?
This is a very small town. They didn't get it signed off, it's one of those do it yourself poorly built garages. I've had to mudjack 1 plus inch cracks in the floor already.
 

mike93lx

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Dec 9, 2013
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Richmond, VA
I've never heard of Tap-cons, I will look into that. I have a 1/2 Hammer Drill to do this job. The garage is a wide 3 car non insulated piece of work that prior owners built. One side is 2 cars, the other a 1 car.
That job is not going to be fun with a hammer drill, but it's doable.

An sds-drive rotary hammer will make it so much easier. Lots of options out there from Harbor freight to hilti. I Run a Bosch, which has come in incredibly handy many times

 

bluedog225

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Jan 31, 2012
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3,266
Location
Texas
Fixable. spacing isn’t super critical. Plates can walk around a bit. You can, carefully, tap them around to get them lined up with the slab. Carefully.

And that bosch walks through concrete. Highly recommended. And a diablo or other quality bit.

You will need something to blow the concrete dust out of the hole. And don’t breath it.
 
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Firstram

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May 16, 2017
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Use epoxy! Any type of expanding concrete anchor may crack the slab that close to the edge. You can buy kits that work with a standard caulking gun but they are more expensive than the twin tube versions. It may be worth buying a twin tube setup depending on the number of bolts and potential future uses. Drill and prep ALL of your holes before setting any anchors and you’ll be able to do all of them with 1 mixing nozzle!

I’ve always used Powers brand (now Dewalt) but, a couple examples for you to compare.


 

larry4406

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Northern Virginia
@Firstram brings up a good point.

Depending on how close to an edge you are drilling, an expansion anchor might cause things to crack. Thus the epoxy approach my be less traumatic.

Our anchors at 1' from ends and 4' thereafter are cast in place, no wedge anchors afterwards.
 

mike93lx

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@Firstram brings up a good point.

Depending on how close to an edge you are drilling, an expansion anchor might cause things to crack. Thus the epoxy approach my be less traumatic.

Our anchors at 1' from ends and 4' thereafter are cast in place, no wedge anchors afterwards.
Tapcon would be fine though, right?
 

strutaeng

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Dallas, TX
Tapcon would be fine though, right?
Yes, but still check what the recommended edge/end spacing are. The "wedge" anchors are the ones that exert a good amount of force on the concrete. Usually on those, I use 8-9" from the edge (for 3/4" anchors.)

Most softwares will give you a warning if spacing requirements aren't met.

The small diameter anchors are not really a problem. 1/2" to 3/4" diameter can be a problem, or when you have a steel plate with a big load and multiple anchors.
 

Firstram

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Tapcon would be fine though, right?
Hard to say, you would have to check your local building codes for hold down requirements. If you’re talking about 1/4” Tapcons, I doubt they would make a difference. A 1/2 or 3/4 wedge anchor would be seriously derated that close to the edge, you can check the charts on their website.
 

Walkers

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May 17, 2021
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Cave Creek Az
Thank you for your help. I researched what type of bolt to use and found that the Sleeve anchor was the easiest? I also have a call into our villiage Building Inspector.
Sleeve and wedge anchors a fine, until they are not, then they are a huge pain in the ***. With Tapcons or Titens you can just pull them out. I used to use sleeve anchors all the time, now I wont touch them unless I have to.
 

duneslider

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Riverton, Utah
I find the Titans or the epoxy in anchors much easier to use on the foundations. Wedge or sleeve anchors can be finicky and aren't by choice on a tops of foundations.
 

larry4406

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Northern Virginia
Tapcon would be fine though, right?
I've not used Tapcon's for attaching sill plates to foundations so I can't comment. I have only used normal cast in place sill anchor bolts, wedge type anchors, or epoxied threaded rods.

The anchor bolts we use are typically 1/2" diameter and 5/8" at garage portal framing locations.

The Tapcon's I have used have all been small stuff (1/8-1/4" or so) for attaching small things to concrete/brick.
 

Bondo

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Greenfield, Maine
Hard to say, you would have to check your local building codes for hold down requirements. If you’re talking about 1/4” Tapcons, I doubt they would make a difference. A 1/2 or 3/4 wedge anchor would be seriously derated that close to the edge, you can check the charts on their website.
Ayuh,..... They come in 3/8", 'n 1/2" too,....
 

Firstram

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Ayuh,..... They come in 3/8", 'n 1/2" too,....
A 3/8” would be derated that close to the edge too. I apologize for overlooking it but, I rarely use anchors that small. If you check the charts, you’ll see a 1/2” anchor 1 3/4” from the edge (assuming 2x4 plate) would be derated by half or more (going from memory). Epoxy would be the most sound method for adding anchors to the slab.
 
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