Recent content by John Young

Thanks for your reply and I appreciate the testing tutorial! Techs from two different companies came on-site and diagnosed the issue. Both said the compressor was shorted to ground and not repairable. The second tech showed me how he tested to verify this, and I took him at his word. I'd like...

I’m looking for HVAC technicians to review this situation and weigh in with your professional opinions. Last week I helped my brother-in-law install a new NEST thermostat at his lake house in North Carolina. The house has a 14-year-old heat pump for AC and heat. In the process of replacing the...

I've tried several styles, including "mil spec", and find that I prefer those made from billet aluminum. These from Rugged Rocks are what I use on my Jeep TJ. ~John

You're right and I would never replace the whole rack myself either. But I also can't imagine being unable to get the jamb nut loose. For that reason, this situation makes me think that replacing the inner may be a bridge too far for the OP. Maybe not. I've suggested how to get that nut off...

You're not the OP.

It's not the outer tie rod end that's the issue here. It's the inner tie rod with the seized jamb nut that the OP is trying to loosen. If the OP can't get that jamb nut to move, then the alignment shop will continue to tell the OP that they can't perform the alignment. Replacing the outer tie...

FIRST: There is really no such thing as "permanent" thread locker (AKA Loctite). Basically, there are "medium-strength" (Blue) and "high-strength" (Red) thread lockers. Blue is intended to be replaceable with common hand tools. Red is sometimes called "permanent", but that only means that it...

Vehicle Year, Make, Model?

Change you focus... FIRST: look at the threaded portion and determine if it's reverse threaded or not (should be visually obvious). Then ensure you're turning in the correct direction to loosen. It's not clear from the photo, but it looks like standard threading to me. The jamb nut will be...