Recent content by JohnnyMac

Hey, you can turn it up or down on the boiler. So that's how high the boiler operates. The wall thermostat is what dictates if it kicks off and on to regulate air temp. If that makes sense.

Thoughts on just running one of these...

I did put a shop vac on it. It sucked some water, but I figured if anything I was getting the siphon back to it. I can barely get my hand back there, but doesn't feel blocked.

Hey guys, to keep this short, unit is only 5 years old. And probably 3 times, maybe 4, to date since it was new. once a year it will burp a bunch of water onto the basement floor, as If the drain pan was clogged, or had a Crack. It's usually related to the first long run of a/c after winter...

Thanks all. As suspected, wired it up as a 220, 15 amp breaker. All is good to go.

Thanks, that's what I figured. One of these with 2 hots and a ground? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Siemens-15-Amp-Tandem-Single-Pole-Type-QT-Circuit-Breaker-Q1515U/100011392

I inherited a big ac unit from my brother in law for my shop. He swears its only a 110, just a unique plug type. I'm pretty confident from the 240 vac sticker, it needs wired as any of the other 220's I've done over the years for welders, my vehicle lift, etc. anyone familiar with these plugs?

Thanks for the opinions all. I have used it a little bit and it works fine. I have a large old school craftsman in the basement that I use for my carpentry projects. This guy is about half size, but too clunky to be a job site saw. Don't have a ton of use for it, just wanted to be sure it...

I have had this kicking around a while and just wonder if it's worth more than a typical garage sale $50 table saw. Can't find a date on it. Works fine. Don't know what all is original on it. Thanks for any info!

The boiler is a 220, the pumps are 110. The boiler is activated by nothing but water flow so the triggering of the pumps on and off is what "causes" the boiler to turn on, but they are not linked in any other way. This Taco water level switch will kill the pumps if the water level gets low at...

Lol, I will safety wire it open for ya. OK ok, I will pull it when I do the water level probe.

That was just there so I could burp air out on initial fill, before I installed the pressure burst valve. I know it needs to be open. I didn't fully understand the air separator would get most of it. Shocker. Lol

What do we think about mounting the sensor in a low profile T right at the existing T under my burst valve, at my 5.5 inch mark? Top left of the system. If I burp the system up to the pressure burst valve, it would be about 6 inches under the water line, and would also shut the system off...

Thanks for all the help. You saved me on my hydronic thread also. Much appreciated. It's running great

Lord I think I get it now...bear with my novice wiring diagram understanding. I was completely missing that the "pump controller" in the illustration is representing both a Neutral, and hot connection. I made the 120V HOT path/wires RED in my diagram....do i finally have it??