Recent content by kars85

I think I'm just going to pull that one small sheet of OSB, tape the 8' seam, and be done with it. Seems like there is a point of significant diminishing returns when it comes to a vapor/air barrier, and I'm not going to fret over making the place so air tight the doors won't close! I've done a...

Had a 12x20 workshop built, but held off on insulating because I knew I'd want additional electrical done before things got closed up. I live in Iowa, and will only heat when I'm out working with my 240V 7000W heater in the winter. My dilemma now that I'm starting to "finish", is in regards to...

Last question- can I stack reducing washers to get down to 3/4”?

Thanks for the feedback - that image is from the back. In the link I posted, Home Depot's images show a more thorough set of pictures. It is external thermostat capable, I bought it, but for that size of shed and the use case, I'll just control temp from the heater and return the stat after...

I have a 240V heater I'm hanging in a newly built 12x20 shed. Walls are exposed for now, but will be covered up and insulated once I'm done wiring and inspected. My question is the right way to wire from the wall to the heater. The heater has a 1 1/4" hole for the #8 built-in pigtails, and I'm...

The grounding bar holes on the panel are on the left side panel, not on the backplane. Pretty poor location IMO! In my first pic, it shows it better with the ground bar installed. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I wasn't sure if modifying the panel, in this case to drill another hole for a self tapping screw, was allowed. That first hole will be a good start, then drill a second hole and put the ground bar there. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I'm running a subpanel under the supervision of my father in law (licensed electrician). I've never run a subpanel before, so I'm taking my time, and asking questions as I go along to whomever will listen! I've got the subpanel up, but am a bit baffled by the mounting location Eaton put for the...

I'm set on the single drop. I don't have a need to retro a subpanel out there as I've gotten by with the 12 gauge wired, (8) 15A outlets already there. But given what I have, this will do. I look at this drop as a luxury drop, not a need. I'll pick up a roll of 8/2 on a 40A breaker. Wire coming...

Good lord I was way off. 10/2 will pull a lot easier and give me 30A? Considerably cheaper wire, enough to backtrack on my initial 50A thought process. Only looks like the 210 MVP will draw 24A at the rated output, and I'll likely never weld long enough to ever sniff the 30% duty cycle.

Hey fella's, I picked up a Hobart 210 MVP welder. I want to wire a dedicated 220V circuit to my shop. I estimate a run of 50-75 feet, so I'll just pick up a 125' spool and sell the rest on CL, or ask around work if anyone has any leftover from a spool I could buy for cheaper. I could get by...

I'd just graduated from college and renting a house when I inherited an "old", hard to find parts for, 120V, 20 gallon direct drive Sanborn from my dad's uncle when he passed away. He was a farmer in Iowa, and the compressor sat in a dirt floored pole barn it's whole life, not likely used much...

I'm sure there's cheaper out there, but this one is a good one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WQYGQG

I tapped for 3/8 npt and was done with it. If I don't like it I will put a sink drain in, but don't see the immediate benefit? Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the pics jsmirabal - I'm almost finished, but at a standstill at the moment at how to go about the drain. The drain from the HF unit I got has 9/16" fine thread, so I'm trying to figure out how to get a 3" or 4" pipe extension to fit a ball valve on there. Went to Ace Hardware and we...