12x20 Workshop - Vapor Barrier Dilemma

[kars85]

Had a 12x20 workshop built, but held off on insulating because I knew I'd want additional electrical done before things got closed up. I live in Iowa, and will only heat when I'm out working with my 240V 7000W heater in the winter.

My dilemma now that I'm starting to "finish", is in regards to my vapor barrier. I started hanging 1/2 OSB on the north 12' wall after putting unfaced R13 in with 4 mil plastic sheeting over the studs, but forgot to tape the 8' vertical edge where the new sheeting overlapped. I'm contradicted on taking the OSB down and taping, but I can see this being a never-ending dilemma.

My whole point of 1/2" OSB was to have flexible hanging options, but what about when I start popping screws through the vapor barrier to hang things in the future. Didn't I just breach the vapor barrier rendering it less/non-effective? That leads me to my overall question - how concerned should I be on the wall pictured where I possible made a mistake, and the overall integrity of the vapor barrier as I move forward.

 

[u2slow]

Im doing 6mil poly VB. R22 batts. Taped seams and the black acousti-sealant at the edges. Not worrying about the odd screw holes.

It's a barrier to resist the movement of air. Your room won't deflate like a balloon.

 

[kars85]

Im doing 6mil poly VB. R22 batts. Taped seams and the black acousti-sealant at the edges. Not worrying about the odd screw holes.

It's a barrier to resist the movement of air. Your room won't deflate like a balloon.

I think I'm just going to pull that one small sheet of OSB, tape the 8' seam, and be done with it. Seems like there is a point of significant diminishing returns when it comes to a vapor/air barrier, and I'm not going to fret over making the place so air tight the doors won't close!

I've done a fair bit of google searching to understand the air barrier concept, and it seems like it's awfully easy to get down a rabbit hole and end up back where you initially started, though process-wise.