Recent content by lateapex911

Agree. KISS. Keep it simple..... Build the frame, lag the back rail to the studs, soup. I'm another that wants legs (And everything) off the floor...easier sweeping. (But then I don't believe in open shelves...cabinets for me..I make too much dust.)

I'm not surprised. I've watched union guys leave open connections, boxes uncovered, improper sized connectors, etc etc. Part of this is our fault, sort of, in our never ending race to get the cheapest job. (I'm not suggesting you did) But the trades are often trying to be competitive in their...

Thanks. yea, the transformer is on the board. I got to the back of it, and all the readings were the same essentially. Tried a dozen different locations such as the neutral wire. In the end, I added a separate power supply and it's operating normally now, EXCEPT, it's in the cellar. Turns out...

Thanks! Ok, I checked the T terminals, and one read 9VAC, and the other 4VAC. My Fluke digital VOM was set to AC, and I used the chassis as ground. I'm a bit confused with your directions. The R stat terminal goes to the 24V T terminal on the aquastat. The W from the stat goes to the other T...

Ah, now we are getting somewhere. Great stuff, thanks so much, I will get my fluke multimeter, and I will get on it and post my results.

Seems I'm away from home a LOT these days, but in unpredictable ways. Last week I spent maybe 30 hours in my house. So, with oil costing a fortune, it's seems prudent to turn the heat way down. But, I have hydronic heat, and when I get home, it takes hours to get back up to decent temps. Just...

I understand that if the surface is "soft", (easily marred by a screwdriver) it should be ground. What's the proper procedure for grinding? Rent a grinder? Which one? What abrasive? Or is etching an alternative?

Closed cell blown in foam would be about R20 for a 3.5" cavity with the right brand... (...just sayin'...it' is possible)