Recent content by Lumpy

I try to clean the area up, do the metalwork, clean it up again and then hit it with the epoxy primer I plan to use on final painting. Even if you end up grinding some of it back off revising something I always felt better with the only thing on the metal being part of the system that would make...

So consensus is no heat. I like the idea of rounding over a piece of wood and hammering from the inside. Think I even have an old wooden baseball bat to use like a punch. Thanks guys!

It the end cap on a 40's semi trailer. I was thinking heat would ease the hammering process..but was also pretty confident it could make it worse if done in wrong spot

Can anyone give me some pointers on where to heat this dent to try and work it out some? Not perfect but to where I can hide it with fiberglass. It's steel, maybe 16ga., about 24"long, I can access the backside, comes to a pretty sharp crease at ends, an inch deep or so at deepest. Thanks!

Not usually. I didn't see any induction period required on tds. I guess waiting couldn't hurt. Would that cause my problem?

I've used the same combinations of paint/primer on lots of projects figuring that by sticking to same products I'd eliminate variables. This isn't the first time it's chipped. Seems like it is always very fragile. I just keep trying to fix the problems, (orange peel, solvent pop i can do em...

#00 blast sand. On the rust, then removed as much of the old paint as possible. Sanded with 80, Wax grease remover then denatured alcohol wipe.

the primer is lifting to bare metal. I cleaned the rust up with spot blasting and 80 grit roloc and da, before I primed. If i recall...the spec sheet says the epoxy can be topcoated after an hour. I waited a couple hours on this particular project. I chose epoxy because I thought it would seal...

Anyone out there who can offer up some advice? The paint i have been using for quite awhile on all kinds of projects is Nason Ful-Thane Single Stage over Nason Ful-Poxy epoxy primer. The problem is it seems really fragile after it dries. It might look good but it seems like a hard candy coating...

Appreciate your help! I will look them up.

Howdy. I am told this jack is from my great grandfather's service station. It works but the shaft and spider gear that runs thru the handle to open/close the valve is missing. Can anyone id it from the pics and is there any chance of finding the missing parts?

Need help identifying.