Recent content by mgsb38

Thanks, that's a great resource.

Here are some top-down views of OSB panels meeting at an exterior corner. The first has one panel overlapping the other forming a **** joint. The second has the same overlap but 1/8" spacing to allow for expansion. The third has no overlap and both panels end with the studs. Is one of these...

Yeah, I was planning on compacting the bottom of the trench prior to pouring. The soil is pretty stable already, fortunately. Thanks for the tip.

I'm having trouble finding info on how much spacing, if any, to leave for OSB sheathing panels at exterior corners. I know I need 1/8" gap between adjacent panels. Do I **** the corner joints, and if so, do I leave the same 1/8" gap? Or do the panels end with the framing and not overlap at all?

Got it. Thanks again for the advice!

Thanks, readhead. I found an illustration online and understand what you mean, now. I was having trouble visualizing it.

Yeah, I'm in Southern California, so footings have to only be a minimum of 6" deep. The existing footing might even just be where the poured wall leaked out from the bottom of the form. It seems to have worked fine, though, since everything is level and the concrete still seems to be in good...

The existing stem wall doesn't have much of a footing to speak of. Maybe 3" or 4" deep and 10" wide. My new footing will be to code at 6" deep and 12" wide. LLWillysfan, are you talking about two bars in the stem wall parallel to each other? At what depth, and what spacing between? My stem...

Hey Krodad, thanks for the posts. I understand what you mean about using epoxy on the existing foundation. That would be a neat trick to epoxy in wet concrete! Just to clarify, you set 2' lengths of #5 rebar (1' into the old foundation with epoxy, 1' sticking out into the new concrete forms)...

I'm rebuilding my garage using the old 12' x 18' stem wall foundation, and I want to extend the length from 18' to 24'. Obviously I need to tie in the new footing / stem wall with the existing concrete. I thought I could anchor two or three pieces of 1/2" rebar horizontally into each side of...

Thanks for the additional input, everyone. pmori_7, thanks for the sketch. That's what I'm leaning towards doing since those would be easy notches to make. I had considered framing a 2x4 bottom wall plate on top of the sill, but my anchor bolts would be a little close to the outside edge of...

Cheers, Max. Do you know if you used the mechanically galvanized bolts or the zinc plated ones? I'm having trouble figuring out the difference and if one offers better corrosion resistance when anchored in a pressure treated sill plate.

Max, did you end up going with the Titen HD anchor bolts? If so, what diameter and length did you use? I'm considering using them for my build and just wondering what your experience was. Thanks!

That's a good point, Max. I'm not sure if I'll be doing any drywall work, but if I do it wouldn't be too much trouble to sort out the corners.

Thanks for all the responses. I'm in Southern California, so no issues with wind or snow, but definite seismic activity. I've already bought my lumber, so it's a little late to switch to 2x6 construction. I may have gone that route if I had anticipated complications earlier. Also, I haven't...