Recent content by MrFreeze

The guys in the refrigeration and fabrication shop where I used to work (before I started there) used R11 for degreasing their hands, and also for hydrostatic testing small pressure vessels. Dirt cheap and no need to dry out the vessels afterwards Same company was developing an R12 immersion...

I used ProPress for my shop air lines in 2019. It's been great so far. A contractor friend lent me the hydraulic tool. Once I had it fitted, it took me about 5 minutes to make all the joints. I ran a 3/4" copper main and 1/2" drops. Here are some pics for reference. Good luck with...

If this were true, there would only be one "standard" sized tank, instead of dozens of different sizes. Tanks are rated for "draw down," which is basically how much water they can deliver when fully charged with the pump off, before the pump turns back on. A big tank could deliver close to 100...

I put a 4,600 cfm fan in my 32 x 48 x 13 ft ceiling shop. One bay has lower ceilings (there is a room above it), so overall ft3 is about 17,400. I wanted an air change every 4 minutes, which is pretty high, but I love it. I paint and weld in there, and this thing moves smoke and fumes out in...

I had a pro do mine, so comments from Shea may apply, but I have been very happy with the results. Still looking good after 6 years. Here's what went into my floor: Here's what is looks like. Good luck with yours, MrFreeze

My shop has 13' ceilings, and I had the windows put in fairly high. I get a lot of light, but you can't see in from outside - at least, not on these walls. There is a lower window on the other end above my desk, and a normal one in the bathroom. The lower ones are just low enough I can reach...

My grandfather's Craftsman radial arm saw (circa mid 1970's, which I have since inherited) is dual 120/240V, and currently has a 5-20P plug on it. I had to wire a matching receptacle when it came to live in my barn. I also used to see these on heaters once in awhile, back when I worked in a...

I can comfortably promise you the RH is nowhere near 99%, so whatever other training your guy may or may not have had, he clearly skipped psychrometrics day. MrFreeze

Size your ductwork by the cfm put out by the air handler. Condenser presumably sits outdoors and sheds heat directly to ambient air. Good luck, MrFreeze

If you are going to be in the area, Arlington Hardware and Lumber is worth a look. https://arlingtonhardware.com/pages/about If you get as far north as Bellingham, try Hardware Sales: https://hardwaresales.net/ MrFreeze

I admire your dedication to reproducing the factory assembly procedures. I doubt if Ford did any metal prep before spot welding in 1967, but what do I know? For possible inspiration, here's a pic of my '66 Mustang fastback getting a new radiator core support about 10 years ago. A friend lent...

I built my own out of Uni-strut lagged into the garage ceiling joists. It will easily hold more than the garage structure can safely support. But I had access to cheap strut, and there are a ton of fittings you can use to make whatever you want to out of it, so here we are. Good luck...

I second the Unistrut. I had a lot of random pieces laying around, so that's what I used. Clamps are what refrigeration people call Hydra-zorbs, there are probably other names in other industries. "Standard" will give you 1-5/8" offset, but there are other thicknesses. Good luck, MrFreeze

My shop is lower than the house, and also about 300 ft away. I had to put in a dedicated septic tank with a submersible pump. It pumps to the main septic tank and drainfield. The pipe between is not that big - about 2" IIRC. It's worked fine for the last 5 years. Only trick was the 2"...

Haven't seen the nameplate, but manufacturer's literature refers to it as 5 hp. I had to dig deeper to find the 21.5 motor FLA. MrFreeze