I here ya. The amazzen comments were quite more than just an 'opinion'. I dont know the guy.
Your right...with bare metal work you cant hide any mistakes, its either right or it isnt. Ive got a trashcan full of mstakes.lol
About the most difficult panel to form was the front cowls. These are reverse curves made in 3 parts. By 1st making the main curve that little eastwood shrinker had just enough balls to pull/push it from a straight curve I made into this reverse.
Nice to have this English wheel too...a forever learning tool. Originally I had a smaller wheel with a 6" upper and 2" anvils...however the bigger 8" top wheel and 3" anvils move metal a lot faster. I stick to US brands for most tools, the Chinese copies just dont have the grunt it seems. I used...
This is the Eastwood shrinker stretcher...was a great tool for about $900. For some reason they discontinued it. Eddie Paul metal fabricator in Long Beach So Cal also sold the same tool.
Anyways...lol, onwards and upwards. The cowl and fenderwell edge driprail on the Tv car ie the 55 Futura is deep and wide so I used a eastwood pneumatic shrinker (which they dont sell anymore) and two pieces of sheared metal strips I folded to form the driprail by following the perimeter pattern...
Sorry havent posted much more on my project ... member here 'amazzen' was slammin the F+^^ out of my metal work on a bat forum....he went on and on and on, said I was a ' hack ' and should be banned from that message board and barred from building anything. nice guy...not.
I know a fair bit about 'glass myself..30 yrs worth., so wth I'll post some pics of the mantis molds, material layup tools etc..also applies to boats altho I dont use epoxy on props. One thing about fiberglass and you'll find out right away once you grind it ..if your impervious to it or not..ie...