Recent content by noweare

I use 4 oz a gallon in urethane, gives it a nice look not too much. It's 30 grit.

Why do you keep saying no "roll-on" products? 100% solids epoxies & polyurethanes are rolled on. Unless you want a troweled on aggregate filled epoxy, which is overkill for what your using the floor for. What you need is a good primer followed 100% solids build coat and a top coat of...

That product has a long pot life. Once on the floor you have an even longer working time. You don't need to go both directions. But if you trying to get rid of color differences from from different batches it would blend the color much better. Most people just don't want to see an abrupt...

I think if you back rolled one end to the other you would of gotten a better look. It looks like (from your pics) you went back and touched up spots with the roller. When you do that it will give the touched up area a different shade. It will not matter whose product you use if you do not back...

If the floor chips that easily I would suspect it is not bonded well. I have done a few experiments seeing how well polyaspartic bonds and the results are not good. The solvented epoxies bond much better.

test testing posting

You can do an epoxy floor for $500. You will need about 7 gallons at 10ml thickness. I would prime though so that would be another 3 gallons. 10 gallons @$42 plus shipping is about $520. You'd still have to spend $$ on prep though.

Use a black stripping pad on a buffer and a degreaser. Rinse the driveway with water well after cleaning.

I know a company that sells a ceramic coating for VCT and is supposed to last about 5 years or so. Micro ceramic spheres are in the coating and you actually are walking on the spheres rather than the binder.

Re: tile requiremnts Sealing grout is over rated. I would use epoxy grout in a garage though. It cleans up well and will be able to take the winters better than cement based grout.

How about ceramic tile and use sanded epoxy grout. That's a strong floor thats hard to beat.

Like Shea said you need to grind off that coating first, that's better prep than acid etching. An acid wash is good for lowering the ph if you need to though.

Porcelain is usually very slick. If you are going to get liquods on the floor then it could be very slippery.

Vct is actually very porous. Keep the floor dry and you'll be good. I think its a good choice it's cheap. You willl still have to use an adhesive that will bond with your concrete. You should degrease your floor first.

Put another way....say you purchase a product that is 50% solids. Well you only get to keep 1/2 of what you put down, the rest evaporates. Solvent based epoxies are usually used as primers because the solvent thins the epoxy out so that it penetrate and bonds with the concrete.