Recent content by nwav8tor

How do I make sure that both legs are broken? Since it's stated on the cover of the pressure switch, can I just assume that the switch does break both lines?

Any comments on using #10 stranded THHN rather than solid and if I should add connector "spades" or just wrap the wire around the terminal screws?

Is that something I need to worry about or is it an internal function of the pressure switch? I'm not adding a disconnect since the compressor is within 25' of the panel and in sight of the panel.

I thought 20A would be OK, but the existing outlet, CB and wiring are rated for 30A so I thought I'd just use what's already there. Thanks for confirming that voltage drop won't be an issue using #10 and verifying that how I planned to connect the wiring was proper. As for the spacing from...

Compressor Location Oh yeah, one more thing: I know this isn't an electrical question, but I thought I'd ask it here anyway since you all are so smart and helpful. My compressor manual says to locate the unit 15" from walls or other objects. Why is that? I can't imagine why it'd need to be...

Thanks for all the help guys. My final plan for hooking this up is to hard wire it to the existing 230V 30A dedicated circuit using 20' #10 THHN in 1/2" steel flex conduit. There are a couple more questions that arose once I decided on the final plan: 1) If I'm using 20' of #10 on a 30A...

The only reason I was thinking of swapping the 30A CB to 20A in the sub-panel or using a 20A fused disconnect (even though a disconnect isn't required) over the outlet jbox and leaving the 30A CB in the sub-panel was to give a bit more protection to the AC motor in case of a short, overload or...

Thanks guys It did not come with any cord or plug. Compressor will be in view of subpanel and the outlet/jbox. Haven't secures AC to the floor yet, but it'll be within 10 feet. Maybe I'll wait to secure it until I have all the wiring figured out so using a pre-made whip could be possible...

OK guys, I've searched the forum and found lots of info on the subject, but I still want to confirm my wiring plans for a new compressor. It's a 3 HP, 60 gallon model with a 15 amp rating on the motor. There is a overload reset button on the motor itself. The manual says it must be connected...

Here's a link to help you calculate the gas piping requirements for your installation: http://www.gpta.net/Classes/Gas%20sizing/Gaspipe%20Sizing.pdf It might be possible to tee off your 1/2 inch dryer supply line, depending on the length of that line and the btu requirements of the dryer and...

Glad it worked out for you. I just used readily available standard length pipes and fittings with a flexible line at the end of the run to the heater. No cutting and threading involved!

I don't think you'd have a problem, but you should do the calculations to confirm it. It really depends on the length of the gas piping runs and how many fittings (tees, elbows, reducers) are used. Here's a link that shows how to do the math...

I have a BigMaxx NG heater in my garage and am happy with it. The fan, while you can hear it, is not what I call noisy. It's ceiling mounted and only about 10-12 feet from my bedroom and I don't hear it from the bedroom when it's running. As for the minimum mounting height, my building...

Two things I noticed: 1) That vent termination cap looks just like the one I have for a vertical vent? Is that cap correct for a horizontal install? 2) Your power and what appears to be thermostat cords appear to be VERY close to the vent pipe. I'd route them well away from the vent and...

You should be Ok as is, but if you're still worried about it, you could install a piece of sheet metal (perhaps an opened/unrolled piece of stove pipe) midway between the two to act as an additional heat barrier.