Not really as long as you don't have any cracking between holes. The anchor (if using the epoxy ones) also acts to help hold it all together.
In reality you don't need to do the full grid like I have - you could skip a row and then repeat the original pattern. There is plenty of adjustment...
You might want to try this:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=432576&postcount=67
"In my case the lift was not lifting even on both columns... even after several tries to bleed the system...
Jeff made himself available Friday and all day Saturday via phone. Way to go! After...
Another possibility:
Some places sell a foam/dye that you can mix in with your liquids to identify where you've been. Saw something similar used on a gold course years ago - the foam eventually disappears.
Finished washing, solvent cleaning, polishing and nano coating the wheel rims on the sports car. Cleaned the brake calipers while the wheels were off as well.
I used the Sikaflex for the expansion joints - if the joints are deep then you might want to consider doing the fill in two stages. If the depth is uneven, you'll get overflow in spots and low fill in others. Also if the floor is sloped then you'll also some gravity flow. Just my two cents -...
I have a similar issue with uneven lifting even after bleeding repeatedly. Can you provide some information (Manufacturer, PN, specs, etc.) for the Flow Controller that you are using?
Thanks in advance!
I don't have that much - only about 1 washer on 3 of 5 anchors.
Because this gap is fairly substantial, you might want to consider getting someone to fab a steel plate at that thickness with through holes for the bolts. This could take the place of the washers and give you some confidence in the...
Thanks!
Not sure what you mean by dragging on the floor.
If you have the posts mounted in a recess (like removed tiles) then the lift arms may drag - but they'll drag even when not in a recess. Mine will drag if I let them down fully - I just stop before they actually contact the floor. As...
I'm assuming you're using Inject-TITE AWF epoxy with Power-Sert Anchors...otherwise you're on your own. Maxjax has similar procedure notes in their epoxy grip kit. Their kit is a good value instead of buying anchors, epoxy and nozzles separately...
I do my own and have always done my own (along with car washes!).
Lately done on the 2 post lift (what a joy) where previously it was on wheel ramps. Since I also take a sample for oil analysis, there is no other option.
When up on the lift, I can also do a good visual check on any potential...
Some items (you've probably got most of these from others already)
- a thick slab 6" or better - in case you get a lift.
- Half bathroom (toilet & laundry sink)! Fan for exhaust (Obviously)
- internet connection (hardwired if possible otherwise a client bridge)
- good, non-slip (when wet)...