Recent content by PopcornSutton

That metal roof will be going strong when asphalt is dried up. But these maintenance things need to be kept up. Many believe screws should be installed in the ribs. There is logic to this, but pulling down the screw where i properly loads against the washer can be iffy. I re-roofed my barn this...

My game is chambering barrels. Once the bed is aligned, I take pains to get the tailstock in alignment with the headstock. Fore and aft isn't much of a problem but sometime the height is off. Some say tail stocks are intentionally made a few tho high to wear down. I push a reamer with a dead...

When I check my lathe, I mark the bed where the level sits the the position of the level, across the bed, on each end. I don't look for perfect level, but look to get each end the same. For a twist in the bed. I don't care if the carriage is running up hill or down, but I want it in the same...

Diagonal braces on the inside of the framed unsheathed wall. Install a brace in the middle of the length on both sides to insure the wall stays straight will getting the trusses on top. Very easy to bump the wall out of alignment mid span.

I don't think I could nail framing for very long anymore. I put new shingles on a couple sheds a few years ago and invested in a roofing nailer. Saved my bacon. If I had to drive a bunch of nails I would get an air nailer. Got finish nailer too. Hand tools I now wear gloves most all the time...

I've seen Hilti expansion anchors installed in cored holes many times. Give them a call and ask.

I changed out my whole heatpump system after 13 years of use, new air handler new condenser new lines. I changed filters regularly. I was SHOCKED when I looked at the bottom side of the evaporator coil on the old unit, was very dirty and partially blocked. With the new system installed, I cut an...

Looks like you can drill under the #7 horizontal bars, which is the strength of the beam. Drill at 3' centers you'll hit a few bands, but I wouldn't lose any sleep over those. You hit bars, you have to either drill new holes or core drill.

I carry a file with me when I'm out cutting for touchups as needed. But when I get home I like to clamp the bar in the vice and file. I mark the top of the vice with a sharpie with a 30 degree X across the top. I use that as a guide to file, but once you get in the process, I really don't need...

Not mentioned yet is the bar condition. Worn grooves will allow a chain to wander side to side and cause crooked cuts. I replace them, but I saw a utube where a guy was using a roller to tighten groove.

There is no magic number for the "number" of strokes per tooth. I don't believe in the method of measuring the shortest tooth and making them all the same, that's wasting the chain. But you have to file each tooth until it's sharp, there should be NO shine to the tooth edge. Any shine is not...

Looks fine to me. With all that roofing, the diaphragm effect will keep it all from racking.

This makes sense. If new work, I would test maybe up to 100, I would leave pressure on during the concrete work but at a lower pressure, maybe 50. I would think pex could be easier to puncture if rock hard so a little give might help. And I would leave the pressure on until put in service, which...

Anywhere around my house, yard and/or garden gets 45% vinegar.

I would not run 110 pounds of water, never heard of a faucet/hose bib, let alone a hose rated for it. My pressure switch is a 30-50, highest I would go is 40-60. Want more, get a pressure washer.