Ron.
I guess you never replaced a galvanized water pipe in your house, I have..... all kidding aside you are exactly right on all accounts and I'm wrong. Feel better now?
Sorry but I have to go now, I'm using my compressor, nail gun and impact wrench with my rubber hose.
Well Ron.... I have years of experience myself and have seen many times where it doesn't take very long at all for rust to build up inside galvanized pipe if any moisture is present. Why over engineer this simple issue?
This is the way to go.... the plastic hose is way faster and cheaper with the same end result as copper or black pipe. Just do not use galvanized pipe! Use rubber if you don't like the plastic hose. It will last as long as you do!
If you don't like the visual appearance of either of these...
I agree100%. Comments like the one at 10-10-2012, 11:03 AM above are just plain uncalled for. You just have to disregard those posts!
And to Slickgt1, I've done a whole lot of tile! Garage floors certainly have different amounts of stress than a bathroom wall.
Thanks for all the replys on the tile edge at the door.
Now...
What's the consensus on the grout line width and what is everyone doing over the control joints?
I'm thinking about installing a porcelain floor in my two car garage.
Under the garage door at the expansion joint, what's the best way to make the transition from the existing driveway apron height to the "new" porcelain tile height?
Thanks in advance
My thought is that tile using thinset over a painted floor is a bad idea. Do it right the first time and you'll most likely only do it one time.
You want to adhere to the concrete and not the paint. Paint on concrete just doesn't last. Look around at painted concrete and you will see many...
I'm a little confused. Why are you doing this? Are you doing this just for "appearance"? I'm assuming this loft is in the ceiling of your garage and will only have foot traffic. If so you may want to think about some of the new laminate flooring available.
How far apart are the joists...