Recent content by RedBKM

Here is the back seat area. I have looked in a 4 door sedan and it had factory seat belts. I can't find any other info on the coupe model.

We have a new minivan for the family vehicle. This is just for the weekend cruise around town. My oldest kid is showing interest and the rest will likely follow.

I need to keep my car safe for a growing family so I want to add rear belts to my 64 Fairlane. It's a Sports Coupe model with no B-pillar so the front uses simple aviation style belts with no retractor. I'm thinking of adding two more that match to the back seat. What is the proper way to...

I chose to build to my shop first. It is located in rural Virginia with no angry neighbors and other city woes. That was 7 years prior to building the house, which is going on now. My biggest hang up was getting electric service. My local power company will run up to 1000' of service to a...

I need to replace the hail guard on my old G&B visible gas pump. The original was constructed of expanded steel formed into a hoop and welded at the seam. Is there any special consideration for rolling expanded steel? Is it even possible? I have no idea how they might have done it originally...

I'm not up on vans... How do those extended tops attach? Why not buy the whole body?

I tore it down completely and it is very clean inside. The motor is only a few years old. I cut the string wrap and checked connections at both ends and I still see nothing. I used a light on the opposite side to look down the "grooves" and still nothing. It must be melted/fused deep down. The...

My electrician mentioned a shop in Richmond that can rewind it. How do you get the winding frame out? I see no fasteners or welds inside the case.

Forgot to mention that's with caps removed, armature assembly removed, end caps removed and wiring disconnected. Both leads still shorted to each other and ground! Daggone it.

Getting closer... Both leads to the motor case are shorted at 0.4 ohms.

Does 0.4 ohms indicate a shorted winding? I know it shouldn't be an open. Yes, the switch moves with a push and doesn't seem sticky. There was some rust on the shaft so I cleaned it off and applied a light coat of grease.

OK I pulled the belts off and the breaker tripped the same. That rules out the compressor pump. I replaced the HOM breaker with a new 60A and it still trips. I thought I'd get lucky but not this time. While in the breaker panel I clamped on and measured a max of 257A on each line. That can't...

I snugged all the connectors and didn't find any suspects. I've heard of HOM series breakers going bad. Will they quit working completely or just trip to early?

I'm not sure what is going on with my compressor. When I turn on the breaker the motor spins up for around 2 seconds and the breaker trips. I checked the two start caps and one run cap. They measured OK (250uF and 50uF) but I changed them because they were leaking. The caps made no difference...

You'll only lose money on your investment if you sell them at a loss. I heard that on an episode of Hoarders. My SAE drawer is still higher in the box than the metric drawer. My newer vehicles haven't required much work yet and my old stuff requires ALOT!