Recent content by Reino

Do you have a picture of what you did or how you built it? I have a metal ceiling and just blew in insulation and am now looking to close it in with some sort of hatch or panel. I saved the metal I cut to make the hole and was going to just attach it to a piece of ply and secure the panel...

Ive been eyeballing the Armorclad product. My building is in the beginning stages (just got the permits on Thursday) so this will likely be a spring project. Anyways, whats the best/easiest way to scruff up a 30'x40' pad? Id rather not have to use a 5" angle grinder for this.

Perfect, thanks Showkey. Ill have to print that off and show the county building inspector. Im sure they'll take that no questions asked.....:lol_hitti

Thank you very much. Im in the process of trying to get permits to install a hydronic floor heat system in my garage. I have been getting the run around from the county. First told I don't need calcs then told I do (Im just installing the tubes at this point and probably won't hook them up for...

Agreed but I figured out the extra cost in the 2x6 opposed to a 2x4 plus don't you need to sandwich each post with 2x6's to bookshelf the girts? My shop isn't big but I have 21 posts which would mean about 40 extra 2x6's plus all the girts. Nice build by the way. Looks great.

I like the idea of the bookshelf girts and toyed with the idea of doing them but that was a whole lot of 6x's and they aren't cheap. In the long run it may be cheaper than doing the standard girts, and erecting some sort of wall for insulation but I just don't have the dough right now for that...

Thanks. It sounds like Im just overthinking this and worrying about stuff not necessary. Ive got it so it drains pretty well from the building and its being built on pretty decent soil. Im confident in the site its being built on. Thanks.

Howdy, After several years of planning and saving (mostly saving) I have finally began my garage. I have the land cleared and am just waiting on the counties blessing before digging the holes for the posts (hopefully early this upcoming week). The finished product is suppose to be a 30'x40'...

Thanks again for all the replies. The topsoil around here is between 8-12". Ive already cut down about 6-8 trees as I was planning on cutting all the trees and then having someone remove all the stumps and go from there. Thats when I got to thinking about removing the topsoil and all the...

Thanks for the replies. Thanks for the reply. He did mention it would take a lot of gravel for the driveway and building pad. Estimated 6" on the driveway from the stripped and 4" on the pad of which ill add 4" concrete to later. I have some lined up but was thinking if they were all going...

Ive been wanting to build a garage for a few years now. Like many others the only thing holding me back is money…and the wife a little but mostly money. Anyways, I have 4 people lined up to give me estimates on the excavation work so I can build a pole barn/garage. The first guy showed up...

Welcome from Warren/Clark Counties. Since you came from the H.A.M.B. as I did might your V8 be an ol Flathead?

Re: Pole Barn on Slope (New Idea or Bad Idea?) Thanks, I saw that in a book awhile back. Never seen anyone do that in this area. Though the wood walls would be much cheaper Id much rather use concrete if possible, it would make me sleep better at night. Anyone else?

Whats the grade like? If its sloped at all why cant you dig in and also dig in the driveway down to the doors and build small retaining walls? So, the bottom of your door could be 2-3' or more below grade. This would make the whole building look shorter. I agree with the HOA Nazis comment...

Don't most pole barns done with a "floating slab" have expansion joints between the slap and poles? Id just continue the expansion joint board up the concrete ledges? Here is another point, I guess. When you build a pole barn you usually have your wood 2x8 or so band boards. Doing it the way...