Recent content by rhdave

Looks like the meter is displaying something, that means you should have power from the supply authority. Look at the handle on the main breaker, it looks crooked. You may have to turn it off, then back on making sure both poles engage. Calling the supply authority won't cost you anything...

I've got the same thing in my bedroom, it's soo nice to have that remote sitting on the nightstand right beside my bed!

Ouch, a lot of these stories make me cringe! I was grabbing my tool bag out of my work van and ended up slamming the door on my left hand. My thumb and middle finger were purple for the rest of the day.

6' of snow piled up on my front lawn as of this afternoon. That's my garage on the right.

I've seen the basic wrench racks at Sears and Canadian Tire, never the full drawer type one though. I'm not sure I'd the big one, I'd never be able to rearrange items if I wanted to.

Not sure why people prefer plastic boxes. If I have to screw a machine screw into a box, plastic is always terrible. The metal ones are far more durable. I prefer the metal ones, and yes, they come in 1-4 gang with romex clamps. I personally prefer the 2104 boxes. I usually just screw them to...

Lutron makes a dimmer switch with a radio frequency remote, I believe it's one of the Maestro series. The remote looks just like an overhead door remote. I'm not sure what the effective range is on this, but it may work if you just want a remote inside your house that controls that light fixture.

Ah, that's one of the differences between the NEC and the CEC. I've never come across any restrictions for subpanel feeder conductors, nor have the inspectors ever brought up anything related to this.

Journeyman electrician, since '07

My trusses are 24" apart, so I bought 24x48 insulation batts. Since I was sticking a 24" piece in a 23-ish opening, they just stuck in place and I stapled the vapor barrier up as I went along. The batts stayed in place with no problems.

The ampacity rating of conductors wouldn't change in a matter of a few years. As previously mentioned, #3 CU or #2 AL would be good to handle 100A at a reasonable distance (ratings would be in the code book). Having said that, I've never seen a 90A breaker before. I've seen 60 and 100A, and 70A...

I'm not familiar with electrical codes in the US, but I would presume this would be code in any building with a vapor barrier.

Those are vapor hats, they must be installed on any electrical fixture on an exterior wall/attic to ensure continuity of the vapor barrier. Smaller versions of these will be on all the outlets and switches on the outside walls.