Recent content by Rhizome

As predicted here, region rep advised against modifying the lift. I also expected that. I found a couple of videos (here and here) that provided some help. Here are some frame captures showing the overhead channel is some small distance lower than the top of the columns. Distance is...

The lift must be oriented perpendicular to the joists due to the orientation of the doors. Also, the prepared concrete pad (8' x 16', 8" thick, 4000 psi, 10" O.C. rebar grid in the middle of the floor) is positioned perpendicular to the joists. If I can oriented the lift parallel to the...

My gut feeling is not to touch the structural components of the building. I wish it is as simple as moving those joists up the LVL beam. Not possible because they are tied to a 14-foot roof overhang (awning?) circumferential to the building. I am asking the Challenger's rep for...

Another point to clarify. There is not a 2nd floor to this structure. The joists simply act as braces for the rafters/walls from spreading apart under the roof's weight. I may store Christmas decorations above them, but that is about the most weight they will see in their lifetime. Carlaisle...

Floor is flat, no slope. Lifting the roof is not an option due to construction constrains. When this addition was built, I specified 14' ceiling height. The foundation company missed the excavation depth by 1 foot. By the time the framing went up, it was too late to correct the mistake.

My ceiling joists are 13' and 1 and 5/8" (157 5/8") from the floor, 24" O.C., 2x10 Douglas Fir. I am looking at the Challenger CL12A Standard. Its column height is 13' 2" (158") and requires a ceiling height of 13' 3" (159"). Poring over the manual (downloaded from Challenger website) and...

Walls are covered with drywall. Otherwise, I would just run conduit. I think I will use SER in wall to a junction box, then THHN in flex conduit to the PP. All wires are protected. The PP requires a 70 amp breaker up stream to maximize its potential, hence #4 copper.

I have a Phase Perfect (PP) PT-330 that I need to wire to a subpanel in an attached garage. The subpanel is in the wall, between wall studs. What is the best method to wire the PP, which sits 5 feet below the subpanel, to the subpanel? I am stuck on how to transition from in-wall to outside...

I lean toward the GFCI circuit breaker also. It might be the more expensive option, but it protects the entire circuit as stated above. Here is a picture of the main panel before the sheet rock went up. It is located in the NE corner of the garage. I can access the ground stake from the...

Stuart, good point. I live in the dry state of California.

I'd like some feedback regarding this electrical project. I want to add a circuit breaker to the main panel to feed a exterior receptacle in the backyard for low-voltage lighting (planned for 300 W transformer, so 2.5 amp draw at max load). I've already ran 12-3 UF-B wire in conduit buried 2...