Recent content by rockettauto

My swivel snap on is like that. I don't have other swivels to compare, no reason. May be I would lean snap on for that. With the swivel pins and that sort of intricacy....I'll stick with it.

Same. An ancient snappy that feels sloppy and is just worn, a probably dirty snappy that feels notchy with lots of back drag, both kobalt 1/2", all the craftsman ( dont know why i keep those). That's all I can think of ATM. In practice the differences are so marginal amongst anything decent I...

I have their 3/8 flex head, 1/2 drive non quick release release and 1/4 flex stubby. In practice I just don't feel any difference outside of the 1/4 stubby has pretty low back drag. In what tests I've seen with strength etc. they come out even or better than the snappys. Again it's not so much...

Clearly not the reason. Point is I haven't bothered because I don't miss using them by comparison. Even with the newer ones that don't need it, they give me zero reason to reach for them over the tektons. I wouldn't miss them if they got tucked away somewhere.

I'd say so. It could sway a little one direction or the other depending on the exact model but I would say more tektons come out ahead overall. I wouldn't argue with calling them even really. So considering their 1/3rd the price I can't call the snap ons a must have. Right now I have husky...

Yes, with exceptions for carports enclosed on only three sides ( and located n the back third of the property), cold frames, and sheds under 200sqft. 1 type of each excepted per property.

You really have to find out what is meant by " match". It could be they don't want wild color difference or it could just mean it should be within a range of size by comparison. It hard to say. Nevermind...I looked, says it's has to be the same architectural design and construction materials as...

If it needed to be that accurate then that would matter. Typical specs for wheel lugs run +/- 10-15% . Experimenting up and down can easily get you within spec. Particularly over several attempts.

Essentially you want the cheapest wannabe air impact you can find. Some wally world 250 ft lb air impact. Electric have too high BPM and so do most modern air impacts. Forget it on clutch guns. Government wide when I wrenched for the Army and DOD they simply weren't allowed to be used as none...

As a WAG I'd say they were probably using 7/16 before and just went with the closest metric standard.

Nevermind

Ford is a big fan of 11mm on interior stuff. Inside doors particularly.

Tig welding. In lieu of grinding you can use a corrosive sharpening compound. A few successive dips it comes out sharp. Dunk It and leave it there , it'll come out dull as hell. I've seen it suggested to dip the file, wipe the surface and let it sit like that. Then the acid just hangs out in...

Acid can sharpen them but at some point can dull them as well. Think of the chemical sharpeners for tungsten rod. Done at the right interval the tip is sharpened, done too long and the sharp point is completely eroded to a rounded point. Basically at first it will thin the cutting edge and...

Same here. Even with metal buildings. Main reason here being that beyond a certain size, code calls for full footers as if it's supporting house walls. Despite how the building is actually supported. Basically the slab is treated as a parking slab if it's poured after and the walls don't sit on it