Recent content by ScaldedDog

Ahh, OK. So, to @danski0224 's point, above, that begs the question as to why it blew? Pending issue with the fan motor? Too low a rating for the fustat? (12a seems a little light for a 20a fan circuit. Or is it?) 30 year old fuse (11/96 manufacture date) that just plum wore out after a long hot...

It tests bad, in that it shows no continuity between the contact on the bottom and the brass "spring". Interestingly, it isn't "blown" in the place where it is intended to blow. I assume continuity is broken down inside, but I haven't taken it apart yet. Yes, the 3a fuse is blown. I did that...

It's a 22 year old Carrier. When I came home last night the power to the unit was completely off, but the 15a amp and 50a breakers were not tripped. No power to the thermostat, nothing. This morning I figured I'd start tracing power from where it entered the unit, and found the issue right...

The furnace in our CO place failed this evening, so I looked back at this thread before diving into it tomorrow. The fan I bought for our place in FL that arrived at my door in November for $860 is now $1500 before taxes. I better die young, 'cause I don't think I saved enough money to stay...

Not to be obtuse, but why aren't you guys looking at Direct and Forward lifts? At least Dover isn't going anywhere, unlike the fly-by-night marketing front ends like Advantage and the rest. Mark

What's your budget like? If it'll fit within it, consider an in-ground "0-post" like this: https://rotarysolutions.com/product/sl210/ The only thing they are terrible at is parking one vehicle beneath another. Otherwise, they have all the advantages of a two-post, but without the posts. Mark

I got them connected with #6 wire today, though I didn't end up using conduit. I couldn't bring myself to spend $100 on metal conduit labeled "for dry location use only", and then lay it on the ground. I could put the wire in something if I ever got called on it, but there is zero chance of that...

I can't find the premade stuff in the right lengths locally, but it's easy enough to run it myself. Does the FMC need to be 3/4" in this case, when its only purpose is to protect a single #6 wire? Mark

I bet you're right, as their rod is noticeably thinner than the other one. Oh, for what it's worth, I spent thirty years in IT. :ROFLMAO: Mark

My home has two ground rods: One for the main service entry (at left in the photo below) and one installed by the fixed wireless internet provider years ago (at right in the photo below). The fixed wireless grounding block is grounded to the second rod, and I used it when I installed my Ubiquiti...

The black 9mil from HF are my favorites, by a lot. Mark

Is this a home you are building, or a detached structure? Not to spend your money, but one of best things about our last two places was that daily driver parking was separate, and closer to the home entrance, from the work area. In one case it was a 2-car that was part of the house, and we...

Got it. I'm not much help, then, but perhaps a little: Water table - I can't see water intruding into the closed fiberglass shell of a Smartlift, and you'll get an alert if it does. OTOH, I don't know what installation issues the presence of water around it might cause, either. If one is still...

Search the forum for the word "Smartlift" and you'll find lots of posts - many of them by me. I've been fortunate to have had a couple of them, both model SL210-RA. That's the one with the flat pads, and I bought a set of extensions and frame adapters for the trucks. IMHO, they are the best...

Not that close. Roughly 8 miles. Mark