Recent content by sign216

I ended up using 16 ga sheet. It was easy, because I could get them in 4'x8' at a discount, and two sheets match the top of my bench. I secured them with just four screws, in the corners. I expect they'll be disposable. When they get too scarred, I'll take them off and pop a new one on. Joe

Nuttsgt, I've got access to a commercial supplier who's got sheet metal much cheaper than Home Depot or Lowes, so that route is good for me. Rather than hunting for used metal tops, I just want to get this done. If you've got time, and a commercial re-seller, then finding a used top would be a...

c39er, Thanks for the info and the photos. Your example is a good one to follow.

BTL-A4, I'm going to put down a 1/8" hardboard to level. It'll be like one of my dates: cheap and easy. Only 6 screws for an 8 foot section? I'm impressed. You must have a good base.

c39er 18 ga is light, but I work on mainly small steel parts. How has that thin sheet been working out? It must be cheap enough that it's almost disposable/replaceable when it get too scarred. To fasten it, did you use screws? If so, what spacing and pattern? Joe

c39er, Did you use screws to fasten the sheet down? What spacing?

That is a terrific idea. I was worried about the uneven surface "bleeding through" to make the sheet metal uneven.

I am glad I asked, your experience is useful. 1/16 is definitely the minimum. Hoping it's enough just as a smooth cover. Let me go inspect the sheet metals. Holding it in your hands often gives more info than the numbers do, and I may go to a thicker as suggested by bb29510, Cobbler...

The ancient orig. top is nailed in place, and I'd rather cover it than try to pry it up. I'm getting the impression that thicker is better, and to shell out the $ for the heftier sheet metal. Is that the consensus?

My ancient workbench needs a new top, to cover the scars, paint, glue and other spills embedded into the old composite top. I'd like a metal top for a change. Most local suppliers offer sheets in 16 ga (0.06" 1.5mm), which I think is the standard for metal bench tops. However one place also...

Bigmaq, I see that, and also, that the swivel base is a real match for the vise. This was a time when Record was struggling to stay afloat and/or after Irwin bought it, so how knows what was going on. An internet search shows a picture of a VS3 base (below), so they are out there. Irwin...

Shiftless, thanks for the offer. I'll work with what I have. By adding a jaw plate to it, then I'll be clearing the base and it's good. RTM, I think "3 SB" stands for 3 swivel base. And the bases marked "4/5 SB" are swivel bases for the 4 and 5 vises. Yes, the old no. 3 is not the same...

I figured it out, partially. The partial answer is similar to what Was Jr said; the inner base plate is not symmetrical. To make it worse, the correct position is for it to be upside-down, with the letter facing away from you (see photo). Makes for a better fit. There is still interference...

Beer hippie , that's a good idea. When I get home I'll look it over to see if that would cause any issues. Do any potential problems come to mind?

Record was England's top vice maker (that's how they spell "vise" over there) so it surprised me. The attachment to the swivel plate are just those two large bolts, fairly easy on-off. Perhaps the intention is for the vise to be removed when you need to clamp a vertical long piece.