What Gauge Metal Top for Workbench?

[sign216]

My ancient workbench needs a new top, to cover the scars, paint, glue and other spills embedded into the old composite top. I'd like a metal top for a change. Most local suppliers offer sheets in 16 ga (0.06" 1.5mm), which I think is the standard for metal bench tops. However one place also offers 18 ga (0.047" 1.2mm) at an economical price. Can I go a little lighter than usual with the 18 ga, or is that a "false economy?"

I usually work in small steel parts, some wood. No welding, or very heavy objects. One worry is that the existing bench surface is uneven from decades of glue drops, paint spills etc, and the thinner sheet might end up with too much ripple.

What do people think?

 

[bb29510]

1/8 plate, 1/4 be better

 

[The Cobbler]

the problem with thin gauge steel is it's very prone to dings , dents etc.
I would want a min of 3/16 probably for a work bench as a result.
but I like wood workbenches for general tinkering. I'd love a steel fab table , but that's a roundtooit job.

 

[elmer]

Maybe you could start by flipping the bench top over.

 

[nadogail]

Your Belt Sander should be able to clean up your bench top.
40+ years ago I was gifted a used Hallowell bench with a 2” Composition top, when I took it home I flipped the top over, it occupies a place of honor in my garage.

 

[sign216]

The ancient orig. top is nailed in place, and I'd rather cover it than try to pry it up.
I'm getting the impression that thicker is better, and to shell out the $ for the heftier sheet metal. Is that the consensus?

 

[iagsxr]

The ancient orig. top is nailed in place, and I'd rather cover it than try to pry it up.
I'm getting the impression that thicker is better, and to shell out the $ for the heftier sheet metal. Is that the consensus?

Yeah, I'd call 1/8" the minimum but also perfectly fine for a general use bench if you know not to just throw heavy stuff on it.

 

[goldtang]

my first bench was 1/8 plate on 1 1/4 angle iron frame it worked just not good for hammering
the latest bench is all aluminium on a 1 x 3 in frame on wheels , with a 3/8 top
it serves 2 purposes work bench and table to sit around having drinks

 

[LopezBart]

I've found 1/8" hardboard (Masonite) a very useful cover for a workbench; it's easily replaced, and offers more friction than steel.

 

[bb29510]

my table top is 3/4 plate

 

[isb cornbinder]

1/8 plate, 1/4 be better

16 gauge is 1/16". This may be as thin as you want to go. I set a 10 gauge sheet on my steel lift table surface. If you get the sheet cut to a slightly larger size, it will be nice for clamping your work.

 

[sign216]

I am glad I asked, your experience is useful. 1/16 is definitely the minimum. Hoping it's enough just as a smooth cover.
Let me go inspect the sheet metals. Holding it in your hands often gives more info than the numbers do, and I may go to a thicker as suggested by bb29510, Cobbler, iagsxr, and cornbinder.

Lopez, it could be that the lack of friction will be a problem, but I'm looking forward to the easy-clean surface.
Ford, I'm curious that you've got a aluminum top. The softness isn't an issue?

 

[finn]

I've found 1/8" hardboard (Masonite) a very useful cover for a workbench; it's easily replaced, and offers more friction than steel.

I’ve gone through several Masonite workbench tops. I don’t like them, as they absorb brake cleaner and oil, then soften and swell. That leaves the top fuzzy and weak. Probably fine for woodworking and light use though.

Used sections of Formica kitchen countertops work well. Menards has precut lengths on sale frequently.

I bought a 1/4” steel plate. Just have to figure out how to cut it, as it is too thick to cut cleanly with my Miller 375 plasma cutter.

 

[Sumboodie]

my table top is 3/4 plate

I got rid of a 4x10ft bench that had a 1.5" thick top. Regret doing that, but at the time had no good place for it and took the big forklift to move it. Probably weighed 2.5 tons.

 

[Barnabas]

Put down a sheet of Masonite first to even out the irregularities in your top. Then put your sheet metal over that.

 

[larry4406]

I bought a 1/4” steel plate. Just have to figure out how to cut it, as it is too thick to cut cleanly with my Miller 375 plasma cutter.

Diablo metal cutting blade in a circle saw with a clamped straight edge for the saw foot to follow. Eye and ear protection.

 

[LopezBart]

I bought a 1/4” steel plate. Just have to figure out how to cut it, as it is too thick to cut cleanly with my Miller 375 plasma cutter.

Abrasive blade in circular saw works... just wear earplugs and over-the-ear protection

 

[sign216]

Put down a sheet of Masonite first to even out the irregularities in your top. Then put your sheet metal over that.

That is a terrific idea. I was worried about the uneven surface "bleeding through" to make the sheet metal uneven.

 

[ATC]

With a solid backing like your bench top, 1/8" would be what I would want (11ga). Thick enough not to ding and deform. Also thick enough to tack weld small items to. But still light enough to install by yourself, and be able to move the bench around if needed.

 

[PoorUB]

I bought a 1/4” steel plate. Just have to figure out how to cut it, as it is too thick to cut cleanly with my Miller 375 plasma cutter.

Like other s have said, a Diablo metal cutting blade in a "normal" circular saw, but the chips thrown off the blade are nasty!

I bought a Diablo blade to cut a bunch of steel siding and it is permanently mounted in a old Milwaukee circular saw for cutting steel in the shop. Best $40 I have spent! I am considering making a stand for it like a cutoff saw.

 

[haveissues]

I have 11 or 12 gauge stainless over a couple of sheets of screwed together mdf. Works great.

 

[Crazyjake8493]

If I had a metal top workbench for general use, I'd want 1/4" steel. For welding, I'd want a minimum of 3/8", preferably 1/2".

 

[bb29510]

my plasma cuts 1/4. just have to make two passes

fyi a 1/8 4x8 cost me $212 last week

 

[c39er]

My 35 year old work bench top was done in 2X8's .....3' X 10'.
I covered it in 18ga. stainless.
I don't do heavy work on it but do use it a lot.
Some small dings...not an issue.
My real fab/work table is 2" plate.

 

[sign216]

c39er,
Did you use screws to fasten the sheet down? What spacing?

 

[sign216]

My 35 year old work bench top was done in 2X8's .....3' X 10'.
I covered it in 18ga. stainless.
I don't do heavy work on it but do use it a lot.
Some small dings...not an issue.
My real fab/work table is 2" plate.

c39er
18 ga is light, but I work on mainly small steel parts. How has that thin sheet been working out? It must be cheap enough that it's almost disposable/replaceable when it get too scarred.

To fasten it, did you use screws? If so, what spacing and pattern?

Joe

 

[BTL-A4]

I have 16 Ga on my workbench (24" x 96") and it has been fine. I don't beat on it or weld on it. Mine is screwed down with 6 screws.

You could flow liquid fiber glass across the bench to level it out. That would stink to high heaven, though.

 

[sign216]

I have 16 Ga on my workbench (24" x 96") and it has been fine. I don't beat on it or weld on it. Mine is screwed down with 6 screws.

You could flow liquid fiber glass across the bench to level it out. That would stink to high heaven, though.

BTL-A4, I'm going to put down a 1/8" hardboard to level. It'll be like one of my dates: cheap and easy.
Only 6 screws for an 8 foot section? I'm impressed. You must have a good base.

 

[c39er]

c39er,
Did you use screws to fasten the sheet down? What spacing?

I drilled and punch counter sinked the holes for the 1/4" head screws.
12" spacing across front and rear of bench top.
No screws at panel seams as they were 1/2" flanges fitted down into tight sawn grooves.

 

[sign216]

I drilled and punch counter sinked the holes for the 1/4" head screws.
12" spacing across front and rear of bench top.
No screws at panel seams as they were 1/2" flanges fitted down into tight sawn grooves.

c39er,

Thanks for the info and the photos. Your example is a good one to follow.

 

[Rockable]

I have one of those roll around tool boxes with the butcher block top. I put a sheet of 11 ga on it and it's worked out good for me.

 

[NUTTSGT]

How about finding some used commercial counter stainless steel tops ?

 

[sign216]

Nuttsgt, I've got access to a commercial supplier who's got sheet metal much cheaper than Home Depot or Lowes, so that route is good for me. Rather than hunting for used metal tops, I just want to get this done.

If you've got time, and a commercial re-seller, then finding a used top would be a nice option.

 

[jaw22w]

My fab/welding table is 3/4" plate. You couldn't hurt it with a full swing with a 10-pound sledge.
I built a big rolling tool/part box with a 3'x6' top. It rolls in and out of the race trailer and contains most anything we need at the races. I call it the War Wagon.
Anyway, it has a well-supported 3/4" MDF top that is covered with 16-gauge galvalume sheet metal. I broke a 3/4" flange 90 degrees all the way around to just fit the MDF top. Then I fastened the top with screws to the edge of the MDF sheet. It makes a nice finished top with rounded edges.
I am lucky enough to have a brake, but a local sheet metal outfit could do it pretty cheaply.
As far as durability, the 16 gauge top has stood up fairly well to some pretty rough handling.
I know I had to stop crew members beating on something on the War Wagon several times. There are a few dings and dents in it, but we have to be fairly careful with it. But not too bad for 20 years of constant use.

 

[rocksnstumps]

c39er
18 ga is light, but I work on mainly small steel parts. How has that thin sheet been working out? It must be cheap enough that it's almost disposable/replaceable when it get too scarred.

To fasten it, did you use screws? If so, what spacing and pattern?

Joe

Noticed the poster of the 18 GA top mentioned made of stainless. Stainless is gonna be tougher than mild steel of the same gauge so not a apples to apples comparison. Could almost bet that 11 GA mild steel (roughly 1/8") sheet is also cheaper to buy than 18 GA SS. My general workbench built a number of years ago is topped with a metal rated fire door from a commercial building. Roughly 16 GA shell but heavy as heck with a solid core of something dense and would guess nonflammable. Still not a great surface to pound on for metal working but general assembly and putzing work does fine. I have a heavy metal cabinet with 1/4" plate top that gets used for most metal related work.

 

[rocksnstumps]

Diablo metal cutting blade in a circle saw with a clamped straight edge for the saw foot to follow. Eye and ear protection.

These metal cutting blades are the real deal with 1/4" and under. As mentioned using a straight edge really helps with blade life and PPE is a must. Those metal chips fly everywhere but the cut is awesome. Give your saw a rest every foot or two. Gonna get warm.

https://www.amazon.com/Diablo-D0748CF-Stainless-cutting-Carbide/dp/B07KWQJB6Y?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[sign216]

I ended up using 16 ga sheet. It was easy, because I could get them in 4'x8' at a discount, and two sheets match the top of my bench. I secured them with just four screws, in the corners. I expect they'll be disposable. When they get too scarred, I'll take them off and pop a new one on.

Joe

 

[metalmagpie]

I bought a 1/4” steel plate. Just have to figure out how to cut it ...

Clamp a piece of flat bar along your cut line. Use it as a fence to guide an angle grinder with an abrasive cutting disc on it. You will be surprised how clean you can cut lines that way. Tip: let the disc do the cutting. You can press hard and it will cut faster but it will wear the wheel away 100X faster, so go easy multiple passes, doing a foot or two each time.

 

[hitech_redneck]

I have always had 3/4” plywood until I lucked into a deal for my new to me 1/2” plate table and Wilton C-2, that could both use some love for 200 last week. I gotta say the thick plate is really nice. Loud but really nice. PS please excuse the mess I have just recently moved in.