Recent content by sky jumper

yes! this is true, and can happen at 16"oc if you use crappy 3 ply sheathing. my biggest regret from my build is going cheap on the sheathing. I started out with the cheapest 1/2" 3ply that Menards had, and it curled up right in the pile - but it was "rated" sheathing, so hey. I had to block it...

it's separate conductors in 3/4" metal conduit. it'll being running the whole house, which is not at all continuous. seems to vary from about 15A to a little over 30 depending on if the well pump is running at the same time as the furnaces, etc. as for 240.4(B).... if I'm reading this...

sorry, yes I'm talking about the main breaker in a subpanel in an attached garage. while I think technically I don't need a main breaker, I'm going to use one anyway since the main panel is in the basement on the other side of house... but the same question applies to the double pole breaker...

if I pull #4Cu to a subpanel, can I put a 90A main breaker in it? QO main breakers don't come in 85A. I can't find the section in the code that deals with this (if there is one).

definitely do it horizontal. same concept as flashing or roofing or lap siding, you want the water to shed down. if you do it vertical you have a potential leak every 9 ft that extends all the way up your wall. if you do it vertical you should overlap a good 6-12" and use the extra wide tape to...

you will have to do it in sections. even if 8' tall 2x4. this is how I did it with 11' 2x6 walls. even with pump jacks it was not easy. part of the trick is getting it on the foundation bolts. In my photo you can see I stood it up on blocks so I could position it above the bolts, drill the...

i'm amazed at how well sheds hold up considering most are built very very far short of code. mine has no rafter ties or ridge board, and only tiny little particle board gussets holding the 2x4 rafters together at the top, 24" o.c. and yet the thing survived a 1,000lb tree falling on it with no...

holy overengineering the shed, batman. its a shed, just put it on blocks and anchor it, or do like I did and just build your floor deck on the ground with 2x4 pressure treated joists, level and support it with 4x4 pressure treated where needed, and anchor it in a few places. this has withstood...

7gpg you are lucky. you really don't even need a softener. I think your unit is 3/4cuft resin, or about 24k grains nominal, 18k useable. so about 2,500 gallons per regen, which I'm guessing lasts you about 2 weeks. you may want to do another regen in a few days to flush out any residual hardness...

well it looks like a 2x6 will get you 16'11" ceiling joist span for #2 SPF and 16" oc (IRC 802.5.1). i admit my trigonometry is rusty, but I believe if you go up by 1/3 in rafter tie height you decrease by 1/3 in the span - i'm talking about lengths not load ratings. something about the law of...

yes rafter span is 1/2 the width. ceiling joist (aka rafter tie) is the full unsupported width, which is currently about 24' by the looks of it. after you raise them they will be shorter, something like 16' I think? so the question then is 2x8 big enough for 16' ceiling joist? I think yes...

interesting. my attached garage has 2x8 ceilings spanning 22ft and hold drywall, overhead doors, a bunch of suspended stuff and a **** ton of attic storage. it seems the code has changed since 1984. i think the OP's span would be closer to 16ft after being raised, if I understand it correctly...

like ford33 said... this is the general idea. a continuous piece of rated sheathing (use plywood) at the upper corner with 3" nail spacing. you can pretty much see what the framing inside looks like from the nail pattern. code also requires strapping on the inside from above the header to below...

unless you're planning to store anything of significant weight in the attic, I don't think there's anything to be gained by going with 2x8 ties. or maybe if you're planning to drywall the ceiling, but even then it'll be a short span. save your $$ for the bigger door.

yep all the load is on the sidewalls. only load on the door header is the weight of the gable end wall itself, and even that is somewhat carried by the end rafters. + whatever load the door opener rail puts on the header = not much. but yeah moving up the rafter ties will be tricky, and...