Recent content by sleek98

BCDL Bottom cord dead load is 25 per your plans, I believe that is 25# per sq foot. Subtract off the weight of drywall and insulation. Most trusses when I looked were in the 5-10# range. so the extra might have been factored in for the air handler.

Just grabbed my bill, its distribution charge .00224 and a facilities charge of .00856 and resram charge of .00092. So I am at .0889 cents, plus .05 cents in taxes to get me to .0942 cents, Higher than my .085 from what I was remembering, but not horrible.

I will pull the specs on it when I get home to see what the true rating is on the heating side. We are at a $0.07718 cent winter rate and about 3/4 of a cent in taxes per KWH. I actually have solar so some months I am down to 2 cents per KWH (which is what I get paid for a net over production)...

I just got our most recent gas bill and it was $294 all in for 180 CCF of gas, which if I am doing the math correctly means I am paying $1.695 per Therm. 294/(180/1.038) = 294/173.41 = 1.695 I haven't paid that close of attention to our Nat gas prices over the last couple of years but it seems...

I just got quotes for my lake house. It is 28' tall. 60' of gutters (two 30' sections) and 65' of downspouts house is on a hill so the back is steep, with leaf guard estimate was $1,750 form a gutter company. The siding crew had a machine and did it for $1,200 while they were there, gutter, down...

Cooling would be my preference. We go down in the winter but not that often. I usually keep the house at 62 all winter so the drywall doesn’t crack. I didn’t really think about putting the unit upstairs in the laundry room on the top floor and just force cool air down. That’s actually a good idea.

Thanks. I have someone coming on Tuesday to spec everything out. I was just trying to see if it was even possible to get the temp difference between floors down to a degree or two or if the consensus was to just go two systems, or hey your going to need a 3’x3’ run for ducting etc.

Thanks. I am pretty confident I can get the ducts in there if they don’t have to be wider than 20”

Does anyone have an idea of duct sizing for a 900 sq foot floor? I know it’s pretty general question but looking to see if I have enough room in the bathroom to get duct work upstairs. I have about a 18-20” space to run it through.

Thanks guys. Wasn’t sure if the “easy” way throwing a unit in the attic was too overkill. I at least have a good idea on what to ask for.

I am in the stage of building a lake house that I need to decide on a system style. I have a 2 story with walkout basement. 2x6 walls, zip system r19 walls and r38 ceiling insulation. Main floor is basically wide open with a small closet and pantry in the middle Of the back wall that I can...

With Evergy swapping to a TOU plan. Are you planning on connecting to the house for peak time?

I am following along. I have been debating putting some solar on our boat dock to run the lifts and keep the boat/ski battery charged.

You might have to shim it to get the post plumb, even if it was perfectly flat. See how far out it is once its plumb standing in its spot. When we took my lift out of the shop I bought it from they had 1/4" of u shaped shims under one of the posts. Does the manual have a tolerance for amount of...

I ended up paying 900 to have mine removed. Trailered 80 miles and assembled. I think it would have been ok for me to assemble it, however at the time it I only had a few days to get it out of the old shop and bring them to my new house.