Recent content by sophijo

My Dad's house had mildew on one side of it's roof. He slipped galvanized flashing strips in the ridge cap leaving sone exposed, He claimed that as the rain washed over them and they degraded the run off changed the ph on the roof and the mildew wouldn't grow.

I'm pretty sure its aluminum. I have a 24" Schultes and would like a 4 footer if you ever consider selling! Regards Dave

....no mention of curing protocol here, and that has a significant impact on the final product. After it's finished keep it wet and covered or sealed. 28 days for the initial cure as I understand it, and it never stops.

....a couple of suggestions; from experience! > Double the door opening, barn door style > Research, thoroughly, skylight install procedures. They are prone to leak unless done right! > It's too small

Those wraps are great!

.....and take care that you use the correct spray foam; the stuff that expands but stays soft.

Those parts look real nice! How about a pic of the saw dressed-up?

How's the concrete surrounding the holes?

Clarification Please: If you build without a permit but it's built to code and you have a claim, can the insurance company bail?..........and what if it's not to code?

IMO the mitered joint is much weaker than lapped; prone to separating as it expands/contracts.

...and that's the name of that game!

Re: I'm building a 3" Douglas Fir butcher block workbench. It's too soft. Finish tips The truth is that it's the wrong material for the work top you want. Fool around with it until you're tired of it and then either start over or skin it with something appropriate.

I use same size all-around!

drain oil in bucket. Dip chain and hang.

I've had everything over the past 40 years. The batteries wear out and cost $75- $100. Home Depot's Ridgid warranty (lifetime) is real. They replaced two sets of batteries and a charger in the last ten years. Couple months ago the drill motor died (10 years old). They couldn't repair it so...