Window install question

[Maxtork]

Hey All,

I am installing the windows in my shop. I watched a bunch of videos and followed the instructions and got the first one in. Now I have a question. I put the shims in on the bottom and the sides but now that I have screwed the window flange all the way around the shims really aren't doing anything. The window is level and square and works like it is supposed to but the shims are just loose. Can I just pull them out and spray foam the gap on the inside and be done or do I really need the shims in there?

Max

 

[readhead]

If it is not a very large window you can remove the shims. I would be concerned with the screws. Most window makers don't want the flanges secured tight to the wall and some don't want nails on the top or bottom at all. Make sure you check the installation instructions.

 

[Maxtork]

The windows are only 32 x 36 inches and the little diagram showed screws every so many inches all the way around so I think I am ok there. I will double check the install instructions just to be sure though. I guess I could leave them in and cut them off flush on the inside but it doesn't seem like they would do anything at this point.

Thanks
Max

 

[readhead]

Remove the shims and spray foam the gap.

 

[tcianci]

Re-shim them so that they're not loose, trim the shims and you're good to go. If you do foam them, be sure to use a foam that is designed for window and door applications so the force of the foam will not bow the jambs. Also it's typical to not only shim the windows but to shim them so that they touch the window header. If you do this, all of your windows will be in an even line with respect to your sidewall finish.

 

[bcoke]

the shims are there to make the window tight [no bowing, racking]and in my opinion should be tight and the window foamed in..........if the shims are loose they are doing anything!!!!

 

[readhead]

The windows are designed to stand alone as a unit. Unless it is a very large and heavy unit it does not need to be shimed.
Years ago when I was doing replacement windows in California the manufacturer I was working with did not want shims. They found that if there was any movement in the building and the windows were shimed tight the glass would break.

 

[sophijo]

.....and take care that you use the correct spray foam; the stuff that expands but stays soft.

 

[Maxtork]

Thanks Guys,

I went back out and played with the shims and I can get them in there snug without bowing anything out of shape.I may not be perfect but I think it will work. I will trim them off tomorrow.

As for the spray foam I bought a can of great stuff "gaps and cracks" foam. It doesn't specifically say it is for windows and doors but it is for gaps less than 1 ".Will this work or should I get something specific for this application?

Thanks
Max

 

[readhead]

Greatstuff makes a foam specificaly for windows and doors. Use a spray bottle of water and lightly mist the area before you foam and you will get much better results. The foam cures with moisture.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Greatstuff makes a foam specificaly for windows and doors.

ABSOLUTELY !

This particular type of foam has low expansion. Too much expansion can bend the window frame !

 

[Scott H in Wheaton]

If I recall its the blue label can and says right on it WINDOWS AND DOORS

 

[Hmrhead]

+1 on the window and door spray foam!! Both DAP and Great Stuff cans for windows and doors are blue. Don't use any foam that does not say for windows and doors. Any other foam has an expansion rate that is too great for windows and doors and cures stiff, not allowing for building expansion and contraction with changes in humidity. The window and door formula, when cured, stays soft to allow for movement.

 

[Maxtork]

Ok cool thanks Guys. I will pick up some windows and doors type. I can use the other can for other stuff.

Max

 

[firecracker]

Hope your using a gun for your foam, cause they can be saved for future jobs, unlike the non gun stuff that gets thrown away.You could use foam only to fix window frames but they require holding till it sets, so screw and be safe.

 

[Kevin54]

If you use Great Stuff expanding foam, you want to be sure to get the "low expanding foam". The standard Great Stuff foam will expand too much and possibly screw up the way the window raises and lowers. I've been there. I had to go back and cut out some of the foam.

 

[Dennis93]

X10 on the window and door foam, it's in a light blue colored can with the same yellow cap. Take the shims out. You only need to do that if you installed it as a replacement window. You said you screwed it all the way around implying you had a nailing flange. If this is the case remove the shims and spray foam around everywhere. Make sure you don't get that anywhere you don't want to, or I'd buy acetone or w/ e to clean it up ASAP.

 

[Maxtork]

Yeah it is a new construction job and the window had a nailing flange all the way around. I screwed every other hole which seemed like overkill but that's ok. I left the shims in and trimmed them off. They aren't super tight but just snug. I will pick up some door and window foam tomorrow and finish the job. I'm just about ready to set the door in place too so I will need it for that as well.

Thanks
Max

 

[rburke65]

Has anyone brought up the fact that you want to use the low expanding foam?

 

[Dennis93]

Well install the door first, once you open a can of foam you use it all or lose the rest.

 

[67carl]

Hope your using a gun for your foam, cause they can be saved for future jobs, unlike the non gun stuff that gets thrown away...

I found that if I cut off the first inch of the straw/tube when I'm done and thread a 1" drywall screw all the way in I can use it again. Just unthread the screw and, if necessary, cut a little more off the tip and you're good to go. I've been doing this for years and never had a problem.

 

[dowmace]

I found that if I cut off the first inch of the straw/tube when I'm done and thread a 1" drywall screw all the way in I can use it again. Just unthread the screw and, if necessary, cut a little more off the tip and you're good to go. I've been doing this for years and never had a problem.

I use a red wire nut and usually don't have to cut off any off the tube. But most window installers won't have one handy

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

 

[tcianci]

We only use the DAP latex low expansion foam on any projects that are indoor. The Great Stuff foams are polyurethane and any of that stuff that gets away from you will be next to impossible to clean up without a pretty hot solvent like acetone. Acetone damages lots of surfaces. The DAP foam being latex, does not get super hard and it cleans up with water. The partial can is re-usable if you rinse out the straw and the valve under the tap.

 

[captain14]

I have just installed some new basement windows so this'd is some useful info for my benefit too .