Recent content by Sticky Grips

After the tank, but before your tools. Allowing some additional hose or hard line after the tank would aid in condensing & separating the moisture.

On LS engines, I was always able to use a chrome 1/2 drive socket. Impacts were too thick.

When i lived in NJ, I visited and purchased from their store in Howell quite often. Really nice assortment of tools. I have always liked SK tools. I have never been to their Brooklyn store.

I used one to spray paneling and cabinets in my kitchen. It's not a bad machine, but the latex paint tends to dry on the nozzle parts relatively quickly, so i ended up with a gun that stuck open. Once you get past that, it was ok. It took a little bit of time to thin the paint correctly. Also...

It really depends on material. Abrasive saws run at a higher RPM than that saw. There are non-ferrous blades available for that saw. Steel? I would not.

I did not like the scissor style jack. I just bit the bullet and bought a HF trans jack. The ability to tilt and rotate the transmission was important. I'm not in my 20s anymore, nor do i have friends that can push a trans back into place.

Have you looked into RFID access? This would be a card or FOB that would block use. Way faster to access than a key. You could also just enact a policy that limits access to specific tools within the shop. This would have to be enforced by management, which sometimes says one thing, and does...

For me, each has it's own use. I use biscuits to assist in alignment, fastening face frames to cabinet carcasses, etc. I just made a bunch of paint-grade cabinet doors using mitered edges and #0 biscuits. I have used pocket holes + dowels in some instances.

I have both homelite and QO load centers. Newer QO's offer the plug-on neutral for GFI/AF breakers, which eliminated the traditional pigtails. QO's also offer tandem breakers (as of 2015 when i did my panel), so if for some reason you need to add one, it's an option. I just stuffed a 54 space...

i don't think I've ever used a slip joint plier, ever. I use linemans for electric work, all other grabby stuff, i use waterpump pliers aka "channel locks" depending on where you are.

I use cable stackers.

I used 1/2" OD Nylon tubing. No issues with rust, easy to run. It also helps that i work for a company that extrudes the tubing.

I don't use EZ outs anymore, i go straight for an endmill and a lefthand drill bit. I plunge the mill onto the fastener to get a flat spot, then left hand drill the item out. I have never had a fastener not come out after using a sharp LH bit. If i get to the point where it's not coming out...

I can't recall the distance exactly, but it went completely across my basement, up 1 floor, into the garage attic, and down the wall. maybe 100ft? The compressor is a 2 stage 60 gallon HF that required a 40A breaker.

I did 1/0 SER cable from the main panel to the sub. I did 100A because i left the option of running power to a detached garage. I have a 50A welder outlet along with a 40A compressor circuit.