Best EZ Out screw / bolt extractor

[scale]

I have a small bolt that the head has snapped off.
I have filed it flat and drilled it out and i am at the point of trying to figure out what the best ez out is?

Every one i have ever used has broken complicating the process. I have gotten lucky a few times and they have worked.

This bolt that is stuck in is a steel bolt stuck in a magnisum decks so i am guessing there is some corrosion contributing to the fact it is stuck. 2 bolts came out fine and one snapped.

I may keep step drilling and retap but i thought id as if there is easy out that actually is worth my time to try. If it snaps off in there i am back to square one of drilling and trying to get that out.


Thoughts?

 

[tatra]

https://www.google.ca/search?q=rigi...GzaneAhWDVt8KHVmIBnoQ_AUIEygC&biw=375&bih=553

Bar none

 

[noid]

Vented bolts and a reverse drill bit:

http://rtstools.com/how-to-drill-out-a-broken-bolt-or-stud/

If you have a welder, welding a nut is a good option.

Plan B if everything fubars is a timesert (load critical) or a ez lok (cheaper not load critical).

 

[Mgdoug3]

Can you use a torch to heat up the bolt without damaging the surrounding area?

Left handed drill bits can work great too. I have a set of Irwin ez outs. I either am glad I have them or hate them.

 

[jumbojak]

If you're going to use an extractor I recommend the straight style as opposed to the spiral extractors. The straights will twist, usually, if they aren't going to remove the bolt. Spirals just snap off without warning.

 

[Farmall450]

Williams Straight Tapered Square Extractors. Best I've ever used (way better than SO or VA spiral).

 

[bob15]

What size bolt? How deep is the bolt? Is it a blind hole? Can you weld a nut on it?

I haven't found the "perfect" bolt extractor yet. I have the Ridgid set shown above, plus the screw type and the square type and none work perfect all the time.

Another option is to keep drilling, larger and larger and then collapse one side and it might unscrew or be able to pull it out.

Left handed drill bits sometimes work as well.

 

[ex-x-fire]

A welder.

 

[Dagny]

Mag. or Al. probably won't be any threads left anyway.

 

[scale]

i already got pissed and just drilled stepping up until it was out. Threads were destroyed no matter how hard to tried so i retapped the hole. I should be good to go.

Thanks all.

 

[mbshop]

My best tool was a machinist, welder fabricater. One man shop and he would get it done within an hour.
He always loved seeing me !

 

[Wamsutta]

These are the best extractors I've used. Proto makes them.

 

[rlitman]

...If you have a welder, welding a nut is a good option...

Not on magnesium it isn’t.

 

[sk farmer]

Vented bolts and a reverse drill bit:

http://rtstools.com/how-to-drill-out-a-broken-bolt-or-stud/

If you have a welder, welding a nut is a good option.

Plan B if everything fubars is a timesert (load critical) or a ez lok (cheaper not load critical).

while there is some cool things to learn from this guy it seems a little off.


i have yet to figure out how he breaks a bolt off deep in a hole and yet still has threads to screw in his "vented" bolt guides.

every broken bolt i have had to remove has either been, (a) flush or somewhat above the surface with nothing to screw the "vented" bolt in or (b) broken in the hole and the thread pulled, stripped or in some other way ruined. neither way leaves you anything to thread his "vented" bolt into.

i would venture to say his broken bolts may have been staged.

 

[noid]

while there is some cool things to learn from this guy it seems a little off.


i have yet to figure out how he breaks a bolt off deep in a hole and yet still has threads to screw in his "vented" bolt guides.

every broken bolt i have had to remove has either been, (a) flush or somewhat above the surface with nothing to screw the "vented" bolt in or (b) broken in the hole and the thread pulled, stripped or in some other way ruined. neither way leaves you anything to thread his "vented" bolt into.

i would venture to say his broken bolts may have been staged.

Bolts and studs break in all sorts of ways.

Consider the following:

TTY bolts
Exhaust manifold studs
Threads sticking out the backside (allowing for coupling)
Corrosion or heat tempering causing weakness at certain depth

In many cases, bolts break flush, and that is where its time to start looking for the welder, attempt to drill it dead center in an effort to collapse it and if that fails should order the appropriate timesert or ez lok.

The good news is you get get a pack of 5 ez loks for $9.26 or a nice assorted set for $100.

Screw extractors are all fun and games until they snap inside what you're trying to remove.

Not on magnesium it isn’t.

Good point, should have read a bit slower.

Its possible, but definitely not a great option.

 

[sweet victory]

Has anyone tried using Rennsteig extractors? https://www.kctoolco.com/rennsteig-double-edged-screw-extractor-5-piece-set-pouch-size-1-5/


Video on youtube that doesn't look staged:

 

[sk farmer]

Bolts and studs break in all sorts of ways.

Consider the following:

TTY bolts
Exhaust manifold studs
Threads sticking out the backside (allowing for coupling)
Corrosion or heat tempering causing weakness at certain depth

In many cases, bolts break flush, and that is where its time to start looking for the welder, attempt to drill it dead center in an effort to collapse it and if that fails should order the appropriate timesert or ez lok.

The good news is you get get a pack of 5 ez loks for $9.26 or a nice assorted set for $100.

Screw extractors are all fun and games until they snap inside what you're trying to remove.



Good point, should have read a bit slower.

Its possible, but definitely not a great option.

i agree that bolts and studs break in all sort of ways. i have an arsenal of of at least a half dozen sets of removal tools as sometimes one works batter than another or you ned to switch up as you go.

my point is this. my experience would tell me that it is very unusual for a bolt or stud to break down below the surface and leave nice, clean and intact threads to screw his "vented" bolt into and then be able to tighten a jam nut to hold it solid.

i may be wrong but it seems that type of break would be very uncommom and improbable. i would be interested to hear from someone who had actually seen that and give me a guess as to how that could happen.

 

[rlitman]

...my experience would tell me that it is very unusual for a bolt or stud to break down below the surface and leave nice, clean and intact threads...

While my broken bolt experiences have matched yours, I have had stripped bolt experiences that could have lead to a broken bolt, which counter your argument.

You're picturing a bolt stuck in a blind hole. And yes, if it's corroded and frozen, all of the threads will be in the same situation, and it will usually twist off either flush or just proud.

Instead, picture a bolt threaded into a through hole. My most recent encounter with this issue was on a brake caliper frame. The flange head sealed the head end of the bolt, keeping the threads on that end undamaged. The tail end was open to the elements, and corroded to the point of getting stuck. Had this bolt twisted off, it would likely have done so 8-10 turns under the surface. Now I wouldn't be concerned with saving a caliper frame, but I've seen similar situations on bell housings where extraction would be preferable to drilling a putting in a timesert.

 

[Finky198]

Technically all you have to do in that situation is use the guide enough to make a mark on the not level surface. Then drilling can resume with or without the actual guide...

It also not necessary the have a lock nut or many threads it can be clamped or held by hand in similar place. I have dealt with it quite often... usually when thread snap in this fashion below the surface it’s either cross threaded, galled, or frozen below the brake point and free above it. Id say more often then not they get drilled out. But making the hole especially in blind hole repair allows you to get penetranting oil behind the thread. Which sometimes works.

What I’ve learned over the years is no 2 broken bolts are the same and the number one tool is patience.... As you learn more techniques you realize removing any broken bolt is a process and a multi step one at that and it should not be rushed...

 

[Tallpilot]

Has anyone tried using Rennsteig extractors? https://www.kctoolco.com/rennsteig-double-edged-screw-extractor-5-piece-set-pouch-size-1-5/


Video on youtube that doesn't look staged:

I'm going to find out, but you just cost me $60. Thanks

 

[theoldwizard1]

Extractors are ALWAYS a bit of a **** shoot ! A couple of things to HELP you before you get out the extractor.

• Use a sharp punch and be as accurate as you can hit the center of the bolt
• Use a center drill bit to start the hole
• Use LEFT HANDED DRILL BITS ! Sometime if you are lucky, the friction of the bit will extract the broken fastener

 

[noid]

i agree that bolts and studs break in all sort of ways. i have an arsenal of of at least a half dozen sets of removal tools as sometimes one works batter than another or you ned to switch up as you go.

my point is this. my experience would tell me that it is very unusual for a bolt or stud to break down below the surface and leave nice, clean and intact threads to screw his "vented" bolt into and then be able to tighten a jam nut to hold it solid.

i may be wrong but it seems that type of break would be very uncommom and improbable. i would be interested to hear from someone who had actually seen that and give me a guess as to how that could happen.

Headbolts from hell:

Some broke protruding above the block, some broke below the block, most got jammed in the head (took machinist a full day to remove).

The headbolt holes on this block are also countersunk, with some of the bolts breaking at the bottom and some at the top of that counter sink.

Good times.

 

[Sticky Grips]

I don't use EZ outs anymore, i go straight for an endmill and a lefthand drill bit.

I plunge the mill onto the fastener to get a flat spot, then left hand drill the item out. I have never had a fastener not come out after using a sharp LH bit.

If i get to the point where it's not coming out, i'm prepared to step up in size until i need to rethread. I've broken too many extractors in the past.

 

[Tallpilot]

I don't use EZ outs anymore, i go straight for an endmill and a lefthand drill bit.

I plunge the mill onto the fastener to get a flat spot, then left hand drill the item out. I have never had a fastener not come out after using a sharp LH bit.

If i get to the point where it's not coming out, i'm prepared to step up in size until i need to rethread. I've broken too many extractors in the past.

I like these if you need to use a hand drill or die grinder. You can mill it flush then left hand drill. Sometimes a pilot hole with a right hand drill first is helpful.

https://the-original-rescue-bit.myshopify.com

 

[Tallpilot]

Some broke protruding above the block, some broke below the block, most got jammed in the head (took machinist a full day to remove).

The headbolt holes on this block are also countersunk, with some of the bolts breaking at the bottom and some at the top of that counter sink.

Good times.

I assume that was some type of farm equipment? It looks like it was recovered from a seabed.

 

[Doug Arthurs]

Did anyone catch Keith Fenner's recent youtube series. I think he called it Bouquet Of ******** Part One, two and three. Three hubs from something or other. No replacements available. Definitely bolt removal to the extreme. Ended up finding a broken drill bit tip underneath a broken of bolt. You gotta watch it.

 

[noid]

Did anyone catch Keith Fenner's recent youtube series. I think he called it Bouquet Of ******** Part One, two and three. Three hubs from something or other. No replacements available. Definitely bolt removal to the extreme. Ended up finding a broken drill bit tip underneath a broken of bolt. You gotta watch it.

Thanks for the video suggestion, that was a fun watch.

I admire how much patience machinists have. I can't imagine he didn't consider just remaking them from scratch at some point.

I assume that was some type of farm equipment? It looks like it was recovered from a seabed.

Actually from a California car; ~30 year old BMW.

The headgasket had been replaced once before, which is the source of all the problems. I suspect the headbolts were not oiled, headbolts likely reused (TTY), and some kind of threadlocker was used.

Vintage BMW tolerances are very tight, which doesn't allow much room when things start jamming up.

 

[sweet victory]

I came across this on a closed facebook group, but never caught the part number from the poster. It's an extractor for socket head fasteners. Really curious for anyone who's tried this tool out. In my industry, I probably see just as many socket head fasteners as I do hex head.

 

[gatlibs]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07G4FYGQ8

I bought these, but have not yet used them.