Recent content by Stryfe

I framed the shop with bookshelf style girts as seen above, I sliced/cut small slits in the white vinyl, and then installed unfaced fiberglass batts in the framing voids. Then I used poly sheeting as a vapor barrier inside, put up OSB, and called it good.

Finished it up. Double pole switch using a knockout that was already on the side of the motor.

I see that now, thank you. The limit switch works perfectly with the way it's wired. I mean it's china based of some sort. I looked at other similar lifts, Triumph, Ideal, RaceToolsDirect, AMGO...all seem to have similar specs. And then you added that start/stop switch too right? Well, it's...

Also does it matter if the limit switch is wired in before or after the power switch? in my case the limit switch will see current before the power switch.

Quick question. Just installed a Tuxedo TP11KC-DX 2 post lift and am wiring it up. I’ve ran 12/2 MC cable to the lift. The manual directly calls for a 20a circuit and the max draw of the motor is 16.5a. Here is a specification sheet: So my question comes with the limit switch up top. This...

I know, but what's confusing me is won't a moisture issue be presented either way? Doesn't hot vs cold weather change the dynamics of how moisture vapor wants to move? (Vapor barrier on the interior wall vs vapor barrier on the exterior wall where it already is) ... and doesn't metal siding also...

Do you mean if I were to heat the shop? If so, I’m thinking I will have some source of heat, yes. May also cool it. Wouldn’t piercing the existing barrier cause potential issues with moisture on the metal siding?

I recently framed bookshelf girts in between the posts in my shop (wish I did this from the start), in order to put up interior sheathing. When I had the building built, I had them install the standard pole barn type insulation which is sandwiched between the metal siding and girts. This is...

@Hubmonkey Thanks for sharing. Quick question, above your sheathing and on the ceiling I see some existing vinyl faced fiberglass insulation, or is that just a vapor barrier? If you did add insulation to existing insulation, did you puncture it before installing that new R13?

Looks awesome! Do you have pictures of your sub panel? Is it also surface mounted? Leaving the top unfinished was an idea I've had because I don't need to finish them all the way up. Was thinking the first 8'. I've considered adding additional insulation but not sure I need it.. seems fine to...

Hey everyone. I've done research into the various methods used for framing the interior of a pole barn and determined there are 4 normal ways to do this: Girts ran across the face of the posts, same way as the outside girts, then mount sheathing Bookshelf girts, then mount sheathing Frame...

Thanks for the input! Ah, why didn't I think of that. That's a good point.

I had a pole barn built last year and have just barely started to move into it. I noticed the skirtboard is now 1/4" to 1/2" lower than the concrete and the garage door trim is starting to bunch up. To mean this means that either the shop is settling or the concrete is rising, which I don't...

This concrete is about 3-4 months old and they did cut relief joints, but not all the way up to the posts in my pole barn. It has started to crack where the joint ends. Is it worth finishing this cut up to the post, or leave it as is? I'm worried if I extend the joint I might cause the concrete...

Dry, semi-arid. Southern Idaho, Boise area. I only plan to run 8' OSB on the walls to protect the existing insulation from damage so I wonder if adding additional insulation behind that is a waste of money.