Recent content by Superdavey

I’ve pulled out and swapped snap on hard handles and plenty of screw driver handles with the vice and pry bar method , however I’m having a hard time with MAC. Reason I’m asking is because I recently bought a MAC XR11PA ratchet which unfortunately has a crooked hard handle that I was hoping to...

I have a little record vise like this one for circuit board work. Made in England , although the one I bought looks to be one of their later productions considering the jaws don’t line up fully parallel … but holds circuit boards well, front jaws can be moved to the rear for greater width

That’s very interesting. It’s a shame my model is a little more plain. But yes, surprisingly a fun ratchet. I don’t see why they don’t make more with this design … maybe the head size ? But even then , it’s not terribly large

I bought this maybe a couple of years ago but only started using it last year and it’s been a total game changer. That tool is a cordless plastic stapler gun. I’ve been fixing all sorts of broken plastic stuff I normally would have chucked in the garbage. Anything I would have super glued before...

I found this “Canadian Tire” branded ratchet today while shopping at the local restore. It has a pretty unique way of releasing the socket. It has two pins next the drive end and when you press the spring loaded direction lever the pins protrude and will eject the socket like you wouldn’t...

I have a made in Ireland brake tube bender … quality unit too. I believe rigid sold them at some point. Made in Israel tape measure Made in Austria tap and dies As someone else mentioned made in Yugoslavia drill bits Wall paper stripper made in New Zealand - I believe the brand name is...

After the evapo rust bath , I normally use either a steel or brass wired brush to scrub the layer of dark stuff under running water then immediately spray it with WD40 and wipe it down with a rag. Never had any rust issues with this method

Here it is with the back plate removed. It’s definitely original to the chuck. It won’t mount to my lathe in its current form since my spindle is a 1 1/2 8 TPI . My plan is to perhaps machine an adapter and attach it to the chuck with the 3 forward facing bolts and the 3 rear facing ones. This...

It should be good now

I got a pretty good deal on this chuck, and so I was hoping I can mount it to my atlas 12 inch lathe but I’m trying to figure out if this is a wood chuck or metal lathe chuck ? The thread adapter you see in the last picture is held on by 3 socket head screws , it’s a 3/4 16 TPI mount , which...

I got a pretty good deal on this chuck, and so I was hoping I can mount it to my atlas 12 inch lathe but I’m trying to figure out if this is a wood chuck or metal lathe chuck ? The thread adapter you see in the last picture is held on by 3 socket head screws , it’s a 3/4 16 TPI mount , which...

For smaller sizes like what you mentioned , I get an assortment set from Amazon on the cheap

Very interesting. One of them says “Dominion” on it After a little more digging I found a couple of more ford branded bits . These two are 3/8 , no taper but they do have a shank at the bottom For the tapered ones , luckily I have an atlas 6 inch that takes an MT1 at the tail stock. After...

That’s what I use as well. I bought an abused one for a dollar at the restore. The cutting edges aren’t the best but definitely great leverage for pulling out cotter pins , staples , etc

It’s a bit of an odd thing for a car company to make … but that sure looks like the Ford motor company logo to me The other thing I’m confused about is why the top third of the MT1 taper is milled flat . I can tell that is how it was actually made because one of the drill bits actually has the...