Recent content by TXDego

I think you made a good call passing on those cabinets. One of the things we build a lot of are Dr offices and medical facilities. We are always taking down cabinets, and they are typically just hammered, one of those good from far, but far from good things. The amount of use these cabinets...

Can't speak to the shop layout question, but can speak to the roll up doors. USE 12'x14' roll up doors, that is the minimum size to use, anything smaller and you will hate yourself. I can get my RV in and out just fine, but no way would I even try to fit in a smaller door. Most all RV's now...

180-200 ft, can't say it bothers me much.

wssix, you are so wrong at so many levels here. Making footers in any slab will not crack the slab, nor do they require expansion joints, nor is it even remotely recommended to put expansion joints in at footers. Please don't give this advice to others as it is wrong and misleading. wssix...

Now that I think about this some more. Why don't you go from a 2x6 for your top cap to a 2x8, maybe rip 2x8 down to skinny it up if you want. Then you could run 1x furring strip from top of pony wall all the way to the floor, less 1/2". Then you could screw your panels directly to the wood...

I would not waste my time or money painting those galvanized panels, that is the whole reason they have been galvanized in the first place. Those panels will last you 20 years outside in the weather, probably last you 30 years inside as is.

Here you go Aaron, these are the anchors I was referring to earlier. They come in a variety of lengths, from 1/2" to 3" in length. Vary simple to use.

If you go the L metal on the bottom, I would use very small concrete anchors, and just pin them into the slab. We use these anchors all the time to secure the bottom angle iron on metal building to attach the pannels at the bottom. These anchors are very simple, just drill 1/4" hole every 4ft...

Im with Steevo here, I have a Miller 250X, and rarely use it, nice to have when you need it, but I use my Lincoln 110V welder 95% of the time.

I have never had much luck getting anything to stick to block using Liquid Nails. Not saying it wont for a little while, but over time it usually falls off. As block absorbs moisture then releases moisture, it will cause the liquid nails to basically unstick. Have done bascially what you are...

I have a Miller Spectrum 300 and I am not overly impressed with it, and certainly would not recomend it. Have used others, such as the Hypertherm & TD, and there is no comparison. Granted, mine is 10 years old and I am sure technology is better now, but just not sure I would buy a Miller...

Steel hands down, don't even think twice about it. Readhead also gave you some great advice, put the purlins/girts @ 2ft OC. We do this all the time on all the metal buildings we build, makes it very nice to install drywall or plywood directly to the walls. Usually not a big cost to add the...

Spoke to NAT, the arm that has the 2 telescoping pieces goes to the front on each side. Also, the motor on lift comes standard as 110V, IF you wanted a 220V motor, you have to request it, and it costs about $90 more. I wanted a 220V setup, but its just not worth the hassel of sending my...

BJett, I am still unsure on the arms, and I forgot to ask NAT when I called today about my missing parts. Decided today that I was going to move one of the posts out of my way. After getting about 3/4" of the bolt out, it sheered off on me. I have had so much grief with these bolts, which is...

stebru, sounds like you are going to use the supplied anchors if you are using a 1" drill bit. Good luck to you, I wish I had not gone this route, hope you have less grief than I have had.